New Member, First Thread, be kind. I could be your Dad, I recently purchased a long mileage FXDWG from a friend with no service history whatsoever, it is long mileage 120k. Now it runs sweet but it is also the first of the series (1999) and comes with it own set of problems, I found a section where someone was discussing this model engine and was upgrading it to hydraulic tensioners and adding a Hi Volume Oil Pump, the writer had no end of problems with oil pressure and found there is an oil galley that requires blocking when doing the upgrade? no pictures of it though, anyone know what he was talking about, got a few pics of this oil galley that needs blocking to share or sage advice? Now I should just open the timing chest and see what I've got then plan a strategy, but, I do things *** about, I want to know what the thoughts are on Hydraulic Tensioners, I like the idea, along with the hi flow oil pump, adjustable rods and roller cam followers. I also like the trick up of Polishing the Cam Chain to run smoother on the followers, I am too old to be interested in performance, I survived my youth by disguising myself from Ole Nick and here I am still going strong at 70, (knock on Wood) p.s. I think Ole Nick is a member of this Forum, hope he doesn't follow FGXDWG's. I am researching my options for a kit that covers the stuff I want to build into my bike, there are a few kits around, are there commendations of any particular kit? should I buy individual items that are best suited to an old timer, I am OK on the spanners, I am just researching the job before I tear it down.

 

So you want to spend a minimum of 1K or more just for parts on a bike worth 3K tops? I owned a 2001 FXDWG. Great bike. I put mega miles on it. But they are not worth anything. Too old, too many miles. Plus, how long do you think that old motor will hold up? S&S makes a great cam chest plate/oil pump/ tensioner kit, but you'll end up with a new cam and lifters while you are there. You can pick up a garage queen SuperGlide with low miles (2007-2010) with a 96" motor and 6 speed tranny for 5+K. Just sayin! Good luck.

 

First... with no service history and 120K miles.... That's a lot of mileage on those OEM spring cam tensioners... it is entirely possible the cam tensioners have already been upgraded... If it was already upgraded, depending on at what mileage that happened, and what upgrade they did, you may not need to do anything.... yet.

I would open the cam chest and see what is in there... One guy posted that he went to check the tensioners on a new to him, older twin cam... he was thrilled to find it had already been converted to gear drive cams.. A vert nice surprise indeed...

There are basically 4 ways to upgrade the cam chest...

1) Easiest & cheapest, is to just keep the spring tensioners and replace the tensioner pads. I'd use Cyco Brand tensioner pads (also sold by Twin Power). They seem to last much better than OEM. This is a good choice if you don't plan to put a lot of mileage on the bike.

2) There is a Screamin' Eagle Cam Plate upgrade. It allows you to keep your current cams, and you get a fancy orange cam plate w/ hydraulic tensioners. Since you keep the current cams, you will only have the newer style roller chain between the crank and cam gears on the front of the cam plate. You will still have the link chain between the cam gears inboard of the cam plate. That link chain is considered to be part of the cam tensioner problem, as it can cut into the tensioner pads faster & deeper than the newer style roller chains. A little better and more expensive than #1

3) Some will upgrade the cam chest to the '07+ cam plate, pump, gears, roller chains, AND you will need new cams... called conversion cams, which will also require a new tune. A better upgrade than and more expensive than #2.

4) Convert to gear drive cams if your runout numbers are good enough (less than 0.003"). This is the best, most trouble free fix... but also the most expensive...

If you search "Harley cam tensioners" or something similar, you will get days of reading and educate yourself to the various pros/cons of each of the above 4 basic upgrades....

Now for a couple of IMHO comments:

If you upgrade the cam plate, you will need the newer oil pump. The older oil pump won't fit on the newer cam plates. However, the older pump, is more than adequate for your engine if you should decide just to change out the tensioner pads. A new oil pump is a feel good mod. But barring heavy wear or damage to the current oil pump, it is certainly not needed... The again, at 120K miles, it might be a good thing to do while you are in there..

The guy who had trouble with oil pressure because he didn't block the oil gallery, is a self-inflicted wound.... it is well known about the oil gallery change on the very early twin cam engine cam plates... IIRC, it's the '99, & '00 year twin cams that are different from the '01+. That little quirk is well documented in every set of instructions I've seen about upgrading those years with a new cam plate. It's pretty easy to do and not a problem if you address it as directed in the various instructions... basically a screw in plug to the cam plate...

The OEM inner cam bearings are weak, and most people upgrade them if they open the cam chest for any reason, You upgrade the OEM INA brand cage style B-148 bearings to the much better Koyo (formerly Torrington) B-148 needle bearings.

Also, I wouldn't even attempt this yourself without first buying the appropriate year/model HD Factory service manual... it will prove to be invaluable.

I hope this info helps...

I could have typed a couple pages on all the details of all the various cam tensioner upgrades... but the information is out there...It is also all over this forum. Do a search, do some reading, and you will be able to educate yourself about the various pros/cons of each upgrade.

I have done this upgrade 5 times. 3 times on my 2 Harleys and two friends Harleys. I have done just a tensioner pad swap twice, and the '07+ Cam Plate upgrade once, and then upgraded the '07+ upgrade again, to an S&S cam plate upgrade & different cams to match a big bore kit and head work.. It's not a hard job if you are handy with tools. It's just a little time consuming and requires you to pay attention to details...

Good luck with the new bike...


PS- No way you could be my Dad, unless you are in your 90's....

 

Thanks for all that info, I guess I may not be related to you at all but could be to Two Lane Tramp. I did work on a sheep station once and women are hard to come by in the bush, He should entertain at Sturges with that comedy act, I forget where I asked for an opinion on values, I guess a 1950's Vincent Black Shadow would be a boat anchor to him. A child trying to talk in an adult conversation.

 

Hattitude rocks! Great benefit and resource on this forum.

 

I'm pretty sure you asked for advice and I gave it. I was also respectful. If you don't like or agree with the advice I gave then God bless you. Since we are the same age I have to assume that when you were nailing sheep I was riding a Knucklehead with a buxom blonde on the back.

 

I would crack it open and inspect. Yes, that area is a known problem with the Twin Cam 88. But as someone else said, it probably wouldn't have lasted 120k miles if that wasn't already addressed somehow. Contrary to what another poster said, if it has good compression, doesn't use oil, and generally runs and drives as it should, you can probably get quite a few years out of that bike, especially if you're more of the local bar hopping type and not trying to use it for 5000 mile weekends.

 

Holy ****, I've been looking for my dad for 56 years! I've got some college bills for you.

 

Are you talking 120K kilometers or 120K miles, just using your location. Also, I wouldn't depend on a dealer to have parts for a '99.

 

With that kind of mileage there would have to some upgrades.. Tear it apart and get back to us on what you have and go from there.. Don't *** U Me..