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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Before I get bashed for it, I have a real reason to convert to carb, my wiring harness and EFI sensors are going crazy and I keep replacing / fixing broken wires, or sensors from age and exposure to rain on weekend rides, all the time. On top of it, my DynoJet PV4 just took a dump, so I am done tuning an ECU, done worrying about breaking down from a bad sensor, or low battery, and moving to carb. I ride every day, all year round (pending no snow or ice) so I need reliability, and I ride long weekend rides where I lead a large group, so I need to be reliable.
Long story short, I plan to remove EFI on my super glide (96ci) Twin Cam. I ordered the 'Speed Moto' S&S Shorty E kit which comes with ThunderHeart Standalone Ignition. My only real question is should I just tap into the wiring harness near the ECU for the Crank Sensor (leaving OEM sensor wiring through the harness) to run the ignition, or remove ALL EFI crap (wiring/sensors/ETC) and just rewire it from scratch removing all EFI and ECU wiring and sensors? I don't use a speedo (I use phone/GPS if I do need one), and I almost always use hand signals for blinker/brake (as I forget I have them from years of riding shovels and doing without them), but eventually I would probably be wiring in new brake light sensor and blinker relays (if I removed the ECU) just to be safe, otherwise I will leave ECU and rely on the stock sensors for blinkers through the TSM and brake sensors. I am thinking about just tapping into the ECU and hijacking the ignition from where the crank sensor meets at the ECU but leave everything else in place for now. If so, I would have the ECU left to handle the blinkers and brake, and that's pretty much it. I do not have security, and I don't care about a bank sensor. Anyone who has done this with a ThunderHeart, let me know what you did with the EFI garbage, leave alone, or remove ECU and rewire?
I am leaning towards just tapping into the stock ECU wiring harness and leaving EFI in place (albeit the manifold, injectors and such), but everything else left alone, in case I ever sell it, and they want to go back.
Thanks in advance and I should point out that I removed the speedo some 30k miles ago so I don't care about the functionality of the ECU except blinkers and brakes for now. Just until it gets colder and I can rewire it when there's to much ice to ride..
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Jul 22, 2025 at 06:21 PM.
My 2007 Dyna, EFI to carb conversion done YEARS AGO. Thunderheart Stand Alone Ignition is AWESOME and simple. Just wait for the box to come and relax. ALL the EFI crap is NOT USED. CPS is connected to the new ignition and gets 12v power from the handlebar kill switch. Turn signals are not effected and the speedometer still works . . . with a small issue. With all the EFI crap disconnected yer gonna get a Check Engine Light, that blows every error code in the book, that does NOT go out. Gotta do a little modification to the speedo. Remove it from bike and CAREFULLY remove the retaining bezel, lens, needle and face plate. Now figure which mini LED light up the CEL. A dab of black RTV on it and reassemble. HAVE FUN and ENJOY all of the TORQUE that was hiding from ya.
Last edited by TexasScooterTrash; Jul 22, 2025 at 06:58 PM.
My 2007 Dyna, EFI to carb conversion done YEARS AGO. Thunderheart Stand Alone Ignition is AWESOME and simple. Just wait for the box to come and relax. ALL the EFI crap is NOT USED. CPS is connected to the new ignition and gets 12v power from the handlebar kill switch. Turn signals are not effected and the speedometer still works . . . with a small issue. With all the EFI crap disconnected yer gonna get a Check Engine Light, that blows every error code in the book, that does NOT go out. Gotta do a little modification to the speedo. Remove it from bike and CAREFULLY remove the retaining bezel, lens, needle and face plate. Now figure which mini LED light up the CEL. A dab of black RTV on it and reassemble. HAVE FUN and ENJOY all of the TORQUE that was hiding from ya.
Right on! That's exactly what I wanted to hear and know! Thank you! I'll follow-up after (but I'll be in Palm Beach until the 2cd) so I'll be on EFI until then.. But I'll definitely update you!
And I'm OK with CEL, I removed the speedo thousands of miles ago 😀
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Jul 22, 2025 at 07:22 PM.
Right hand controls, the GREY wire is power to the Kill switch. Kill switch controls power to starting circuit and ignition. So kill switch will work normal, starter and ignition on/off. Set the ignition curve to D.
No, for what I need for ignition is only the Crank wire. I am having an issue with the wires fraying and annoying me and will be rewired (crank sensor is new) so IDC about the failing harness and will be replaced this winter (re-wired). The new Crank Sensor is not the issue, its (IAC, VSS, TSM) and so on failing. I only need Crank for standalone ignition, and will be a new run to the the standalone. I was trying to figure out if I should re-use the ECM connection (harness at the ECM) to keep it stock'sh for the next owner.
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Jul 23, 2025 at 12:34 PM.
Holy crap, I should've done this 5 years ago! 96ci should ONLY come carbureted! Smooth idle, smooth acceleration, awesome idle, incredible ride, and the best part, no fuel injection, no computer, no sensors (except the crank which I replaced with the conversion, just in case), and simple naturally aspirated carburetor! It took longer than I planned but that was only because I had to make the wiring harness, fabricate a makeshift coil bracket and safely remove and tuck away any EFI parts under the tank and seat (to keep it stock revertible if needed). The only thing that was destroyed was the fuel pump and original petcock but that's cheap and would be best replaced anyway if it's ever converted back to EFI. Plus I didn't catch it the first round but I had a manifold leak in my right gasket, so I had to redo my manifold this morning to fix it. I don't plan to ever sell my dyna but who knows. I wanted to keep it available with options for now, but I'm probably gonna re-wire it this winter and fully remove everything (ECU, wiring, and all sensors) and box them up. I kept everything in the wiring harness intact and only removed the fuel rail, fuel pump, and injectors/throttle body (and all sensors except the VSS for turn signals) and of course crank to fire the thunderheart. I frickin love it! I was forced into doing it as an emergency conversion yesterday because my IAC crapped out and no amount of carb cleaning would solve it so I started after work yesterday and finished today (but I missed my weekend ride that I lead). Nothing I could do though, but I'm really glad I did the carb conversion!
Here's a few pics:
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Aug 23, 2025 at 04:42 PM.
Hey I was in Palm Beach Florida when I replied and then forgot to follow-up. I was playing around with the curves as I was tuning it after the swap. At first it was crappy but I went through the SS guide and got it locked in for the most part. I still feel I'm missing power (3,500 to 4,000 RPM powerband) and was planning to jet it tomorrow but I was also curious about the curves. What does D do, specifically, so I can learn and know..? I have it on the stock now (which I believe is 4) but I'm inside right now. I went to stock (what it came with) because the others seemed to get worse as I tested them (but at the same time) I was tuning initially through the SS guide so it could've been carb tuning. I ended up leaving it on the stock 4, but I'm definitely interested in knowing what the D will do as I do feel I'm lacking mid power but IDK if it's jetting or timing so let me know please..
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Aug 23, 2025 at 04:51 PM.
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2007 Super Glide FXD - EFI to Carb
