When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
The hardest thing for me was getting the wire loom back into the backbone. I had to pull all the wires out of area below the seat and reach down with long needle nose pliers and pull the wire loom while pushing the wire loom at the neck. I put the 560 chubby drag bars on.
Bit the bullet, had the dealer do mine. I've done or will do everything else but don't want to deal with potential wiring issues so I had them deal with it. Was able to use stock wires though.
The hardest part was the turn in the bars. I used wild1 501'S with built in risers. The connectors can be hard to dis-engage wires. Allow plenty of time. There are several threads on the connectors. Wild 1's web site has some tips on internal wiring I would read them. I did a tank change out at the same time some it was easy to get slack out of the frame. Someone did a thread about cleaning up the wiring it was slick and looked good after they were done.
Smiley
Sounds as if I am in for some fun with the wiring aspect of this job from what you guys say. I like to do my own work when I can but thinking seriously of having the dealer do it since they have the know how to do it correctly (I HOPE!)
The internal wiring is not that hard. Like previously stated, that last turn is the toughest but it really isn't that bad.
Just tie a small nut to a string and feed the string through the bar. Then attach the switch wires to the string and slowly pull it through. In your case, it would be much easier to cut the crimps off the wires and re-crimp once they are through. That sharp bend will make it tough to get the crimps past them. Whatever you do , do not cut the stock sheathing off the wiring. If you do it's alot more likely you will scrape the wires when pulling them through the bars. It also makes it easier to lube them up to pull them through. Use some dielectric grease or KY Jelly to make it easier to slip them through and just be patient.
I doubt you would need to extend the wires, so it's a pretty straight forward job. If ya need help shoot me a pm and I'll try to help you through it.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.