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Problems installing new exhaust, re: O2 sensors

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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 06:38 PM
  #21  
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Default RE: Problems installing new exhaust, re: O2 sensors

Would PB Blaster (can get it at Advance Auto Parts) and heat - I usualy use my OxAcc tourch and get the pipe side red hot. Works 9 out of 10 times - that 1out of 10 times the bolt breaks off.

Usually like Murphey's law: "If it don't fit, FORCE IT, if it breaks it probably wouldn't of worked anyways".

Good Luck.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 03:13 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: Problems installing new exhaust, re: O2 sensors

I had the same problem on my front O2, was cross-threaded from factory. If your doing pipes and a PCIII at the same time, just get the O2 bolts right away and you dont need to mess with them twice.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Nightrider2
USE PB BLASTER spray, if anything will get them off, PB will, get it at Wally world.

PB Blaster!!! I second that!! spay it on and go drink a cold beer, when you come back it will spin right off!!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mayneman
PB Blaster!!! I second that!! spay it on and go drink a cold beer, when you come back it will spin right off!!
I got hung up on changing my pipes. Got my stock exhaust off but could not get the front O2 sensor to turn at all. I used just about everything. I even bought the O2 sensor tool from HD and while it gives better gripping power, the sensor would not budge. I soaked it in PB and let it sit overnight.

At my first attempt after soaking, I got two full rotations before it locked up again. Doing a second soaking right now and I'll hit it again here shortly. At least I know it will come off! LOL.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Seems like this is a pretty common issue and Im just wondering if anyone has said f it and buy a new sensor or is this cost prohibitive and a new 02 sensor really expensive? After all the whacking, smacking, put it in a vice, heat it up with a torch does any of this damage the sensor or are they pretty much bullit proof?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 12:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by markrumsfield
Seems like this is a pretty common issue and Im just wondering if anyone has said f it and buy a new sensor or is this cost prohibitive and a new 02 sensor really expensive? After all the whacking, smacking, put it in a vice, heat it up with a torch does any of this damage the sensor or are they pretty much bullit proof?
It seems so. Finally after a few applications of PB Blaster and some WD40 while making my attempts to rotate, it slowly and painfully finally turned out.

I believe these o2 sensors are installed by a machine at the factory, something I'll have to see if there's a complaint line for someday lol.

An O2 sensor is in the $80-$125 depending on where you get one. So even with some elbow grease it's worth the effort, imo.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by daurwid
It seems so. Finally after a few applications of PB Blaster and some WD40 while making my attempts to rotate, it slowly and painfully finally turned out.

I believe these o2 sensors are installed by a machine at the factory, something I'll have to see if there's a complaint line for someday lol.

An O2 sensor is in the $80-$125 depending on where you get one. So even with some elbow grease it's worth the effort, imo.
Thats a little more spensive than I thought. I was thinking maybe 30 or 40 bucks. Mine are going to be fun to get out if I ever get a full system. At 18k, pretty sure they are going to be stuck in there real good...
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #28  
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I just got my '10 street bob a month or so ago, have about 2000 miles on it, maybe I oughta try to pull my O2 sensors out and put back with anti-seize now? Or maybe already too late? Didn't realize this could be a problem until finding this thread! Have pulled sensors out of car exhausts all the time with no problems, yeah, need a breaker bar, but have had them come right out so far! Guess the air cooled HD motors run a hotter exhaust, cooks the threads in there!

Could be wrong, but seems I heard that some of those sensors depend on the threads and pipes to provide the ground side of the sensor circuit, so might be sensitive to what kind of anti-seize used. Don't know if the HD system is this way or not, but I generally use a copper based (locktite copper anti seize is a good one) just to make sure.

Sensors like this on cars, particularly water temp and oil pressure, need a good ground to complete the circuit, put teflon tape on them and there's a good chance they won't work. The copper anti-seize has always worked for me.
-2Loose-
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Last edited by 2Loose; Jun 10, 2011 at 02:23 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 02:33 PM
  #29  
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I use copper antiseize when putting them back together... All you have to do is heat the pipes up a little and you can put the O2 sensor socket and it comes right out.:-)

You're welcome!:P
 
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