Power is important to me. I came off a bike that made a boat load of torque. Buying a new bike with a stock motor just wasn't going to cut it. I didn't mind spending some money to get it, but didn't want tobe stupid about it. I would have installed another turbo, but no kits are available. Don't have the time right now to experiment and build my own. So I read a lot, did my homework, and came up with an engine that I thought would be simple, inexpensive, and yet still work for me. Pretty much limited to SE parts for now until aftermarket catches up. And I wanted the dealership to do the install before I even took delivery. I wanted it ready to ride the day I got it.

To keep it simple, I used SE air cleaner kit, SE ProII torque slip ons, SE 95" barrels, SE cast high compression pistons, and SE 204 cams installed straight up. The new heads are very good, so we left them alone. If high rpm power was the goal, then a little clean up would have been done. The tune was done on the dyno with a SERT. Except for the SE script on the top of the mufflers, it looks like a stock bike. The sound is a little louder than stock, but not bad at all. I won't put up with a harsh exhaust note for hours at a time.

I live at 6,400' ASL, and often ride to 10,000'+. 2 up with luggage, windshield, and a 30mph head wind is common. The name of the game here is torque. The dyno sheet looks really good. At this altitude you lose a lot of power; about 2-3% per thousand feet. The torque peak of 94 @ 3,600 is pretty good. At sea level that would be about 109 ft/lbs. Not too shabby. Note the flat A:F ratio and the lack of the standard dip in the early part of the curve. The magic of closed loop EFI.

I like the power, I'm pretty spoiled. I took one trip to the mountains last Sat, and commuted every day this week. Bike felt excellent on take off and coming out of a corner. And, it runs great on low octane fuel! But it felt a little sluggish to me yesterday when it was 80* and I had a passenger. Maybe because I don't have a tach and maybe was short shifting. Havn't tried mountain or highway with a passenger yet. I came off a bike that made 110ft/lbs, and I drive a car that puts nearly 500 ft/lbs on the pavement.

Still keeping my eye out for a turbo kit.



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Nice numbers Bob.

The dyno sheet shows SAE correction which means this is the power the bike will make under a 'normal SAE day' rather than at 6400 feet. Winpep allows conversions to other corrections from memory. Its either called uncorrected or actual hp. See how much it knocks off changing the correction.

cheers
Surly.

 

sounds like you got it pretty well nailed, I have a 99 FLHT with 95 inch kit, 203 cams and 44 mm cv carb..that has over 100,000 miles on the kit, runs good, don't have the power your putting out but for a bagger it seems to do ok..I had it over Beartooth pass and on the million dollar highway and over Rocky Mountian national park..it did run a touch rich up there but no biggie..
I just went out today and bought a 2006 FXDI, pick it up in about a week, already thinking of what I want to do with the motor.. my first bike with the FI don't know much about them yet

 

what is your gas mileage like?

 

My gas milage is around 40-42 miles per gal..extreme wind or running over 70 will drop it down...seems my bike really likes it just under 3,000 RPM

 

>> The dyno sheet shows SAE correction <<

Not sure about that. They tell me they don't use correction facters, but maybe they did. You could be right. I don't really care one way or the other, though. The height of the curve isn't nearly as important as the shape, location, and area under the curve. Total numbers are for racers - track and bench.


>> what is your gas mileage like? <<

I seem to be getting about 45mpg. Hard to tell, though. Only had to fill up the tank once; only has 217 miles.

 

I noticed some sluggishness in the Texas heat on my '06 FXDI and sprung for the factory oil cooler, seems to help. It was nearly 100 degress yesterday in Dallas and I felt less heat off the engine, less bogging on takeoff when hot. And I'm just at Stage 1, with a 95-inch kit and cams it might be an even better idea. And, I had the dealer put it on, and it doesn't leak. At least not yet.

 

Yeah, that's on my mind quite a bit. I've heard that these engine run hotter than an Evo.

When I had my Evo (heavy sigh) I was thinking about it. A turbo can add a lot of heat. On a really hot day (for central CO) I went out and abused the engine a bit. Rode on the highway a bit. Then around town in stop and go traffic. Slow speeds and keeping the tach above 3K. More abuse than I ever put that bike through for any extended period. Checked the oil temp and it was only 215*.

Once summer gets here, I'll do the same thing with this new bike. If I need a cooler, I'll spend the big bux for a quality cooler right away. No alum heat sinks, gotta be a real cooler. Also needs a thermostat, and provisions for AN lines and fittings; rubber hoses and worm clamps just won't cut it.

Also, I was looking at my bike and thinking about a cooler. One of the "improvements" on the new bikes are taps for external oil lines. Supposed to make it easier to install a cooler. But if you look where those taps are, there's no way to get a fitting on it! The plug sits directly behind the frame rail! Useless.