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Rigid struts

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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #21  
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wow so glad you made this post i am going to order some now.. SLAMED... and put a springer seat on this beast..
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #22  
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Default Back at ya!

Originally Posted by FUQUA
Thats a great looking ride.
I always like to see how everyone else interprets their ride. The all black is truly a badass looking customization bringing out that classic look. Here's a side shot with rider before I changed the pipes to "fix" the ground clearance issue on the right side.

The fender had clearance on the frame and laid directly on the belt guard like it was meant to mate up with it. The brake line is at its max extension too, but not crimped.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #23  
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Default Length of struts

Originally Posted by dcurtis229
When they say 9.5" does that mean that all I have to do is measure the metal and cut to that length? thanks again
The measurement is center to center on the mounting holes. I think it would be cool to have a couple of Craftsmen tools turned into struts. ya know, the huge-*** box ends?

When you do lower your scoot make sure to install a 1" under jiffy stand! With the bike on 9.5" struts, it "stood up" will on the stand. I kept finding myself in search of hills or pot holes to keep the bike from flipping on its right side! Now I'm confident it won't tip in a breeze!
 

Last edited by GBeck; Feb 10, 2009 at 12:24 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 01:55 AM
  #24  
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i have seen all kinds of welds brake,being a rigid frame,swingarm frame ,springers.but most were bad welds,



Originally Posted by sgt.tackleberry45
I have seen the welds bust on a swing arm cause of the rigid conversion. it can hurt the bike
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by GBeck
I always like to see how everyone else interprets their ride. The all black is truly a badass looking customization bringing out that classic look. Here's a side shot with rider before I changed the pipes to "fix" the ground clearance issue on the right side.

The fender had clearance on the frame and laid directly on the belt guard like it was meant to mate up with it. The brake line is at its max extension too, but not crimped.
Those pipes look great, i might end up having to do the same thing. Im dropping the front-end today 2" we'll see how the clearance is shouldn't be an issue, ya never really know until you jump into it.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 03:23 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Doughboy
i have seen all kinds of welds brake,being a rigid frame,swingarm frame ,springers.but most were bad welds,
My thoughts too. A rigid frame is not the forgone remedy to weld weakness. Anything is possible given the correct amount of force applied. Vibration causes the chronic sheet metal fatigue and cracking while acute shock from sudden impacts can shear the strongest welds of solid tube steel.

I'll keep my "rigid" Dyna until my kidneys complain and then reinstall the lowered shocks. I love the way it looks and like watching the conservative riders cringe in sympathy for my 42 year old spine.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 08:09 AM
  #27  
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To each their own, but I sure don’t ‘get it.’ I’m not as much as lowering my Street Bob. The Nightster I had with its 11” shocks was more punishment than I cared for.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:27 PM
  #28  
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would it work with a 180 rear tire?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bunkerbeer
would it work with a 180 rear tire?
Are you asking if running struts would work with a 180? You'd need to measure the height of the tire and at minimum add maybe 1/2"-3/4" for wire clearance. Then measure between the mounting points eye to eye. Make or purchase struts to match that.
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 10:49 PM
  #30  
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Thanks Vic. Im doing it tomorrow...
 
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