any way you could do some figuring to make a quality spacer for the caliper when swapping front end from a mid glide to a wide glide

right now i have 3 stainless washers in there but i would definately like something that looks better

 

You mean like mine?

 

spacing the caliper out seems an odd way of doing it .
most people/shops space the rotor out instead.

 

yeah i spaced out my rotor and left the caliper mounting standard

 

Look close at the rotor mount in my pic above. I used my 06 Dyna wheel and the rotor is a bit different in how it floats on them. Easier, neater and cheaper to move the caliper in. When I add my chrome caliper the spacers will blend right in.

 

Moving the caliper away from it's mount greatly amplifies the load on the mounting bolts, making it more likely that the caliper can warp the bolts forward, moving the aft end of the caliper inboard. Repeated flexing of those bolts could cause failure. I'd move the rotor out.

 

That isn't going to happen based on that the caliper was only moved in a small amount, has hard stainless spacers, hard stainless bolts and is torqued correctly. Have a look at my attached rotor pic and the bolt laying in the wheel. It would be silly to try and duplicate that rotor/wheel mounting let alone find proper longer bolts and rings when two spacers and bolts move the caliper in just fine. Thanks for your input though.

 

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well when i did the wide glide tree swap my caliper was to far away to work, so i shimmed it with 3 stainless steel washers. it has been working fine.

on the other hand, i just ordered a new set of wheels, and i ordered an 07 wide glide wheel from performance machine, does this mean that my caliper should meet up with the brake rotor in stock position?

 

For bzzrd2 and others using stainless bolts,
you say you have "hard stainless bolts" and they are torqued correctly, just be aware that 316 stainless bolts, which are the most common, are only about equal to low carbon grade 5 bolts and not the grade 8 high tensile bolts that are mainly used on your bike.

Having said that I often use stainless bolts on my bike but as a general rule, I always run a tap through all the holes first, tighten to nearer the lower end of the torque range stated in the manual and apply a small amount of blue (243) loctite to the bolt when fitting.

This will lubricate the bolt going in to avoid it "picking up" which stainless tends to do and for piece of mind as I used the lower torque setting.

you may already know all this, pardon me if you do but just thought I would share coz stainless can be a real pain sometimes ......