What is that?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Last edited by WS6 Formula; Oct 28, 2010 at 10:02 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
honestly if your gonna go threw the hassel do it right and remove the primary, you will need the tools to remove the outer primary,a torque wrench and a tool to lock the clutch and compensator( if you dont want to spend the money of the compensator tool a deep well socket attached to a 6in extension in 3/8 drive works just fine!!). If you have any mechanical know how it is a very simple job and only takes about an hr or so to do it, you will also need the inner primary seal and the o-rings for the inner primary bolts, and possibly the outer primary gasket, 1qt of oil. Just did it on my 2010 SB just take your time and it will be ok plus its good to get in there and re-torque the compensator anyways since some were under comming loose from the factory, Mine was way under spec, if you have a service manual it will walk you threw the process step by step...best of luck!
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 3
From: Jefferson, Oregon
honestly if your gonna go threw the hassel do it right and remove the primary, you will need the tools to remove the outer primary,a torque wrench and a tool to lock the clutch and compensator( if you dont want to spend the money of the compensator tool a deep well socket attached to a 6in extension in 3/8 drive works just fine!!). If you have any mechanical know how it is a very simple job and only takes about an hr or so to do it, you will also need the inner primary seal and the o-rings for the inner primary bolts, and possibly the outer primary gasket, 1qt of oil. Just did it on my 2010 SB just take your time and it will be ok plus its good to get in there and re-torque the compensator anyways since some were under comming loose from the factory, Mine was way under spec, if you have a service manual it will walk you threw the process step by step...best of luck!
Funny...that is the "hard" way of doing it, WS6 posted the easy way and the goal is the same in the end, just less parts to disassemble/reassemble. The way WS6 posted, is the way most mechanics do it after charging book time, the way you posted. Just a FYI, no way is wrong in the end.
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