Even if the new slip-ons are perfectly round where they connect to the headers (they're probably not), the odds are good that the headers themselves are not, or never were, perfectly round.

There's also the issue of the previous Torca clamp reducing the size and/or distorting the diameter of the header pipe. Sometimes, a friction fit just ain't gonna do it.

You have a couple choices, IMO. Either expand the header pipe, which can be problematic if not done perfectly, or use a high quality RTV sealant.

Just make sure you let the sealant cure for at least 24 hours before cranking up the bike. Otherwise, it may blow the sealant away.

If it were me, I'd buy new clamps, check the diameter of the header pipe where it attaches to make sure it's not crimped, apply some quality RTV sealant (or whatever) and give that a shot.

Sometimes, the old clamps are just used up. Yes, metal stretches. More than you think. And when you put some smoke on those clamps, they'll stretch and not return to their original shape, which allowed for considerable clamping force.

I re-used mine but I think I just got dumb lucky. Also, don't over/under-torque the clamps. The torque figure is there for a reason. Before a certain number (say, 35 foot-lbs) the metal doesn't stretch enough to have any clamping force. After a certain figure (say, 50 ft-lbs) the metal is stretched beyond its 'memory' and loses clamping force.

If you plan on working on your Harley, you need a set of torque wrenches. IMHO, you don't need to spend 100s of bucks on them. Most of Harleys specs read like "Tighten to 25-30 ft-lbs" which (again, IMO) gives you enough leeway to use less expensive torques wrenches. I just set in the middle (27ft-lbs or so) and go for it. My Harley has little in common with the Warp Drive on the Enterprise, so it should be close enough.

I got mine at Harbor Freight for $20 a piece. I have a 1/4" drive inch-lb, a 3/8" drive ft-lb and a 1/2" drive ft-lb. I got one of 'em on sale for $14.95. I use them all the time.

If you're not accustomed to using torque wrenches, read the freaking diections. Actually, even if you are, read them anyway.

 

I would buy a torque wrench...

 

well guys thanks for all the help, I got home took everything off re measured the heat sheild and the pipe and turns out I was about 1/8 inch off on both. put them back on and tightend them back down. I havent bought a tourqe wrench yet but i tightened them down as much as I could, started it up and right away I could tell it was better, it sounded better. i let it run for about 20 mins and NO LEAKS! i think i got it! sounds great! i love it! Gonna take it for a spin tomorrow if weather permits.

So now...Should i take it to HD to have a download?

 

Check those clamps periodically. Word.

As far as the 'download'? You'll get varying opinions on that one.

With just slip-ons, your computer can almost certainly handle it. The O2 sensors are 'upstream' of the slip ons and the only thing they know how to do is read the oxygen content of the exhaust.

In theory, there could be a minor change in the air/fuel ratio due to the superior scavenging effects your slip ons will produce but your computer is more than capable of adjusting to it. IMHO.

Some of the guys swear by the 'download' while others thnk it's about as useful as a screen door on a submarine. YMMV.

If you want more performance and decide to go to a high flow air cleaner, that's when you HAVE to do something. My Dealership won't do a 'download' if you change both the exhaust AND the air cleaner.

And I agree with them.

A lot of the guys here run the PCV (power commander five) while others prefer software to hardware. I'm in the software camp personally, but I understand the PCV is an excellent unit and a lot of people swear by it.

I have the factory alarm. I looked under the seat for a place to put the PC and -- I can't see the room for it. Bummer.

For now, I'm just running it stock with slip ons. I put an oil cooler on the bike from the get-go. I DO live in Florida. Gets kinda toastie down here.

This Summer, the oil was getting up to 245 degrees. Not bad, but not really great either. I just went for a ride yesterday and checked the oil when I got off the bike -- 200 degrees on the money. It was abut 75 degrees out, sunny and I wasn't 'babying' the bike or anythng.

Either the ambient temperature has way more effect on the oil temp than it should or the computer has learned to adjust the A/F ratio to cool it down. Dunno, but I'm happy as a clam with that temp reading.

We'll see if it can maintain that temp once it heats up down here.

Do yourseelf a favor. There's a LOT of really good discussion and technical input on this Forum that a lot of people have spent a lot of time getting involved in. Many of them are professionals while many more of them have spent years experimenting and forming educated opinions.

The 'Search' function is your friend.

 

Yes, buy the tourqe wrench