AFTER YOU BUY A 2005 SUPERGLIDE
BREAK IN, The twin cam engine needs to be broken in properly. 1: start engine with enricher "choke" fully out, let run for 2 minutes at idle, 2: Push in "choke" half way, let run for 1 minute. This is important you dont rev the engine during the 1 in this procedure. Oil must reach all the parts this is most important during break in. Installing a Tach may be a good choice before you ride your bike. 3: Ride for about 5 miles, do not rev over 1800 RPM shut off the engine let sit for 2 minutes, then check oil level. Now restart engine let idle for 30 seconds, then ride for 20 miles never over 1800 RPM. After 20 miles repeat oil check. For next 50 miles run your bike at varying engine speeds never over, 2500 RPM. It is also important not to lug the engine this puts more strain on certain parts than overreving. The next 25 miles you can rev to 3000 rpm, do not just ride at a steady speed up, down. At 100 miles totaly inspect everything you would service at 1000 miles. do not rev over 4000 RPM before 1000 miles. You may change fluids at 500 miles not before, and no synthetic oils until 10,000 miles . If you don't know why it is listed in the oil forum. I personally do not change the breakin oil for 1000 miles. Don't add aftermarket parts for 2500 miles, engine was meant to break in stock. After market parts for performance lessen engine life by increasing RPMs and heat output. An oil cooler is acceptable for breakin period. At 1000 mile service you should do the following:
WARM UP FOR 5 MILES
1 drain engine oil, tag bike out no oil
2 clean oil drain plug with solvent let dry
3 remove oil filter
4 replace oil filter my prefrence is Drag Specalties it is magnetic and has a nut for easy on easy off
5 screw in drain plug use a torque wrench, loosing a drain plug can be deadly to you or your riding buddies.
6 add 20w50 or desired oil, I use 20w50 until winter then I use 10w40 it is cold in NE Ohio winter
7 remove tranny drain plug
8 clean ust like oil plug
9 screw in drain plug with torque wrench, you know why.
10 add 80w90 gear oil
11 drain primary fluid
12 clean drain plug
13 remove inspection covers, primary chain and clutch, you have to remove shifter
14 check primary chain slack, tighten if necessary
15 install drain plug user torque wrench
16 add oil to primary, I use 20w50 some people prefer 10w40
17 reinstall covers use torque wrench
18 reinstall shifter
19 check all fluid levels before proceeding
20 check air filter
21 inspect entire bike
22 lube cables
23 check brake fluid front, rear
24 check motor mounts
25 inspect electrical system make sure you have extra fuses
26 at 1000 miles you can adjust clutch at cable if there is not excessive free play (you may have to adjust clutch internaly before next service if you adjust at cable. when internal adjustments are done remember to back off cable adjustment.)
27 check tire pressure and tread, also check completely arround for damages on tires.
28 adjust drive belt
29 use torque wrench to check axl nut tightness
30 pull plug wires off plugs and turn bike over 3 times for 3 seconds each. This will circulate oil throughout the system.
31put wires back on plugs
32 start engine pay attention for warning lights, if oil light stays on for more than 5 seconds after starting bike shut it down and check oil level. If resivor is full you may have a pressure problem take to shop waranty covers this.
33 clean off any fluid that may have gotten on engine or tires.
34 test drive 5 miles
35 check all fluids and drive belt
This is a complete 1000 mile service. The shop charges $275 for something like this. They leave out some things on the list, they must not think runing oil through the system is not important before th
Take a look at this link and tell us what you think of this proceedure
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You say.... then ride for 20 miles never over 1800 RPM.
That would give you an approximate 750 RPM leeway to go through the gears and I seriously doubt if that could be accomplished without lugging the engine(ie 3rd, 4th or 5th gear at lets say 1200 to 1800 rpm's). Where did say you you get this information from.?
Evan , you stated this in another topic on 6/24 https://www.hdforums.com/m_63695/mpa..._/tm.htm#67118 .... "I have been a mechanic for 14 years, and done some extensive reserch on this topic." Would you share you source of this info with us here?
What's with no synthetic until 10,000 miles? The Harley Davidson Screaming Eagle 103" models come from the factory with Syn3 synthetic. In another post, on 6/24, referred to above, you said it was okay to go to Syn at 5,000 miles, now you are saying 10,000 miles???
Regards,
Bill
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Any way I look at this at 24 MPH in 3 rd gear under 1800 rpm's ,you are doing more damage to this engine than good! You can look foward to problems with the lower end with this proceedure JMHO
1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500
1st 7.21 10.8 14.4 18.0 21.6 25.2 28.8 32.4 36.0 39.6
2nd 10.4 15.7 20.9 26.1 31.4 36.6 41.8 47.1 52.3 57.6
3rd 14.7 22.1 29.4 36.8 44.2 51.6 58.9 66.3 73.7 81.0
4th 18.8 28.2 37.6 47.0 56.4 65.8 75.2 84.6 94.0 103
5th 23.1 34.7 46.2 57.8 69.4 81.0 92.5 104 115 127
I'm with you on this one.
Here's my plan. Just do it like the Motor Compamy says to.
We have had 3 new HD's in the past 10 years, and broke them in per the owner's manual.
Results:
1995 Roadking 80,000 miles when I sold it. Not one motor or trans. issue. Still running good
1997 Lowrider 48,000 miles when sold. Not one motor or trans. issue. Still running good
2005 EG Classic 5,000 + so far, and no problems. Still running good
Regards,
Bill


