relocating front signals 08 SB
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Cruiser
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relocating front signals 08 SB
looking to relocate the front signals on my 08 SB.
normally i'd just start cutting and splicing until i get it done, but this bike is the nicest thing ive ever owned, and i'm trying to keep it that way.
i tried to do a search but everything i could find dealt with the back, or just mentioned fork clamps, nothing talked about the actual process. hopefully someone has done this and has some advice...
as it is now, the signals run through the hand controls...not sure when they started doing this, but my old 02 sporty definitely didn't. does anyone know if the wires simply run through there then into the bundle and down the bars, or is there a connection to something inside there? is there a way of disconnecting the signals for the move without just cutting the wire? pulling them from the quick connect socket perhaps?
if anyone's done a how-to on this and can link me, i'd appreciate it. again, i looked but couldnt find anything for the fronts.
here's a pic of the bike as it sits today. hopefully signals can be tackled this week. rears are gonna need to be moved as well, just havent decided where to. possibly internally wire the bars while im at it.
thanks for any potential help.
normally i'd just start cutting and splicing until i get it done, but this bike is the nicest thing ive ever owned, and i'm trying to keep it that way.
i tried to do a search but everything i could find dealt with the back, or just mentioned fork clamps, nothing talked about the actual process. hopefully someone has done this and has some advice...
as it is now, the signals run through the hand controls...not sure when they started doing this, but my old 02 sporty definitely didn't. does anyone know if the wires simply run through there then into the bundle and down the bars, or is there a connection to something inside there? is there a way of disconnecting the signals for the move without just cutting the wire? pulling them from the quick connect socket perhaps?
if anyone's done a how-to on this and can link me, i'd appreciate it. again, i looked but couldnt find anything for the fronts.
here's a pic of the bike as it sits today. hopefully signals can be tackled this week. rears are gonna need to be moved as well, just havent decided where to. possibly internally wire the bars while im at it.
thanks for any potential help.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 708
Likes: 5
From: Bluffton, SC
You don't mention what relo kit you might be using. I'll PM the Harley instructions to you since the file is larger than this site allows.
If you are using a different kit you should be able to adopt to what the instructions tell you. Good luck and post pics.
If you are using a different kit you should be able to adopt to what the instructions tell you. Good luck and post pics.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
I don't have any pics or a write up because it was pretty easy. If you have any commonsense it can be done with no problem. I'll do my best to write it out.
1. Disconnect quick connect fuel line from tank
2. Unbolt tank and slide it back about 3 inches. Make sure you put a rag on the top of the rocker box cover or watch where the hose clamps are on the fuel line cross over so they don't scratch the rocker cover.
3. Now you have access to the wiring harness. Remove black plastic cover on the underside of the backbone. It hooks on the inside of the frame. Pop the tabs on each side of the backbone by pushing them in with you fingers and the cover comes right off.
4. Now pull all the wires out of there (don't be scared because there is a lot stuffed in there) The sig connectors are about 2.5 inches long and 1 inch wide. You can follow the wires and you'll be able to figure it out.
5. To make it easier for pulling the wiring through I removed the rubber grommets on each side of the neck.
6. Once you identified whatever sig you are going to start with disassemble the molex connectors. You can use YOUTUBE and type in "molenex connector disassembly." Make sure you write down what color wire goes in what slot.
7. Unbolt hand controls and pull the wire through and it's done.
8. Put molex connectors back together, mount sigs in new location and re-route wires as wanted and you should know the rest.
Hope this helps.
1. Disconnect quick connect fuel line from tank
2. Unbolt tank and slide it back about 3 inches. Make sure you put a rag on the top of the rocker box cover or watch where the hose clamps are on the fuel line cross over so they don't scratch the rocker cover.
3. Now you have access to the wiring harness. Remove black plastic cover on the underside of the backbone. It hooks on the inside of the frame. Pop the tabs on each side of the backbone by pushing them in with you fingers and the cover comes right off.
4. Now pull all the wires out of there (don't be scared because there is a lot stuffed in there) The sig connectors are about 2.5 inches long and 1 inch wide. You can follow the wires and you'll be able to figure it out.
5. To make it easier for pulling the wiring through I removed the rubber grommets on each side of the neck.
6. Once you identified whatever sig you are going to start with disassemble the molex connectors. You can use YOUTUBE and type in "molenex connector disassembly." Make sure you write down what color wire goes in what slot.
7. Unbolt hand controls and pull the wire through and it's done.
8. Put molex connectors back together, mount sigs in new location and re-route wires as wanted and you should know the rest.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by JaronB; May 18, 2011 at 12:36 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
The sigs are not connected to anything inside the controls. They just slide right out. Not sure what you're doing with you sigs, but here's what I did with mine, which I think would look sick on your bike being all blacked out.
Put them down off the forwards.
Here's with smoked lens
Put them down off the forwards.
Here's with smoked lens
Last edited by JaronB; May 15, 2011 at 11:51 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
I made it out of 1/8" flat stock steel from the hardware store. I made a cardboard template and used that to cut it out of the steel with an angle grinder. Put it on and kept grinding till it looked good to me. Then bolted the fowards back up.
Here's the thread I followed. More pics of my bike is on post #43
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...rols-done.html
Here's another thread you can use also.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...with-pics.html
Here's the thread I followed. More pics of my bike is on post #43
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...rols-done.html
Here's another thread you can use also.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...with-pics.html
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Cruiser
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: Indiana
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Cruiser
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man, that was a mother****er.
didnt pull the tank, cause it's full and dint want to drain it or deal with the crossover tube.
got all the wires pulled apart... the connectors for the signals were not molex. atleast not conventional ones. took me forever to get em apart. lets hope they go back together.
decided to internally wire the bars while i had everything apart. should be tackled in the next day or two. fingers crossed for it all to work. we'll see.
didnt pull the tank, cause it's full and dint want to drain it or deal with the crossover tube.
got all the wires pulled apart... the connectors for the signals were not molex. atleast not conventional ones. took me forever to get em apart. lets hope they go back together.
decided to internally wire the bars while i had everything apart. should be tackled in the next day or two. fingers crossed for it all to work. we'll see.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
Yes, it's much easier to slide the tank back. You don't need to drain the tank. Pull the quick disconnect and you get a couple dribbles and that's it. I did it my first set of apes on a full tank.
That's odd that they aren't molex connectors. We have practically the same bike. There are different sizes and shapes.
Just take you time and it will be smooth and easy. If you have to really force anything I would sit back and try again. You shouldn't have to muscle anything.
That's odd that they aren't molex connectors. We have practically the same bike. There are different sizes and shapes.
Just take you time and it will be smooth and easy. If you have to really force anything I would sit back and try again. You shouldn't have to muscle anything.