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fairly normal... are you running a tuner like a power commander? if so, try hitting the start button as soon as you hit the run button ,rather than letting the fuel pump fully prime... works for me...
went ridin all day today and tried the method u suggested and that seemed to work fired right up every time with no problem, now to put my mind at ease can anyone tell me why this is the case
went ridin all day today and tried the method u suggested and that seemed to work fired right up every time with no problem, now to put my mind at ease can anyone tell me why this is the case
I’ve decided to simplify my answer. When you key up, it takes a certain amount of time before the ECM is fully INITIALIZED. When you crank quickly, there is some amount of that “crank time” where the ECM is not fully initialized. So we are “catching” certain functions in abnormal modes and positions. The IAC has several MODES and positions associated with each “MODE”. When you key off the IAC is set to a given PARK POSISTION. When you CRANK the IAC is SET to a CRANK POSITION. When you start cranking before the ECM is fully initialized, we are most likely “catching” the IAC before it can move to CRANK position. That can effect Air rate and may deliver a slightly richer Crank Pulse Width. ( Even though the table values in the software are in A/F for “crank A/F vs. Temperature” that A/F is converted to Pulse width like all other fuel commands. During the “CRANK” mode, there is also a table that “decays” pulse width vs “ref. signals” . So the longer you are in “CRANK” the more the PULSE WIDTH is decayed! It may be that when we start cranking the engine before the ECM has fully initialized, that algorithm that counts “reference signals” vs. Pulse width decay allows more fuel before the ECM has initialized and reduces the pulse width vs. “refs”. Reference signal counter doesn’t work until the ECM is fully initialized. So you are in effect getting more fuel when you crank quickly. That is my guess, from knowing how the ECM/Software processes the signals from all the sensors.
Maybe I missed something. Why would anyone wait? I mean: when I switch it on, I immediately hit the start button and my '09 starts immediately. WTF?
Some folks wait for the "check engine"lamp to go off before they crank. You hit the "RUN" switch and the "check engine" light is on until the ECM initializes. If you hit run and then "start" before that happens you are cranking while the ECM is initializing. And yes it works better to go quickly from RUN to Start. That is what we are guessing is different whe someone waits for a second for the check engine light to go out before cranking.
Some folks wait for the "check engine"lamp to go off before they crank. You hit the "RUN" switch and the "check engine" light is on until the ECM initializes. If you hit run and then "start" before that happens you are cranking while the ECM is initializing. And yes it works better to go quickly from RUN to Start. That is what we are guessing is different whe someone waits for a second for the check engine light to go out before cranking.
Exactly what was going on and thanks for breaking that down for me FBRR case closed
Also something you do not want to learn the hard way.The line could have been a higher quality but its not.From vibration alone eventually the line leaks.When it happened to me I thought I had bought bad gas.The problem comes from lugging the motor (not intentionally) but when the fuel psi is lower because of leaks this can occur.If your fly wheels are pressed in like mine are lugging the motor can cause them to shift and then your in for a lot of hurt.
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