I'll pick some up tomorrow. 190 and what for the pilot jet?

 

id go 195 or 200 and 46 or 48 , if you want to run the 46 and cant find one pm me and ill send you one but id try the 48 and 200

 

Will do thanks!

 

are you going to drill your slide ?

 

Few years back in Hot Rod mag. Tthey had a product that reduced heat on the headers. What they did was tape a tennis on one end poured the product in and taped another tennis ball on the other end rolled it around to coat the inside. Wish I remembered the product. It was silver/gray in color.

 

Looking good man!

Hey, unless you are in love with the football you may find an OUTLAW HiFlow A/C HERE that will go with your build.

You can find some optional covers HERE.

 

My thunderheader is black from factory. No heat shields and runs cooler than the old Chrome one I had with shields. Try tuning the carb first.

 

What choke cable did you end up using?

 

The Thunderheader seems to get really hot, even at 6am. When I rolled in to work it was radiating heat on my leg. I am going to have to get the heat shields for them or something. I was thinking about the titanium DEI wrap like 07Bobber has maybe too, but I'm not so sure about the wrap. I know it will keep the heat way down, but I want my pipe to have some longevity.

I would be interested in the actual temp numbers you are experiencing with that jetting setup, then an after jetting temp number as read by a infrared temp gun throughout any of the heat reduction methods whether it be the pour in coating, VHT, or the DEI Titanium wrap.

I am considering the DEI Titanium wrap for mine as well, but have also considered just painting it again with some high heat paint and not wrapping my T Header.

Suggestions on the best Black Semi Gloss or Flat High Heat Paint for this application appreciated. Someone suggested the VHT paint which is readily available at Auto Parts stores. Have you guys had any luck with this?

 

LA Choppers high club bars review

I put some of these on the 2002 FXDXT as I really liked the height of them and the price was great as well. Anyone that knows LA Choppers well knows that they manufacture many brands of bars for the industry and makes and extremely high quality product. Initially I was a little concerned about the amount of pull back they had as I prefer the front of my knuckles to be facing directly forward as opposed to any pullback. Well, all my thoughts have proven wrong after the first real ride on this bike.

First off the 13” perfect. They are below my shoulders and I can sit perfectly comfortable with them. You will have to change your cables if your bike came with stock bars that are not apes. As far as a street bob I really don’t know as my bike came with lower bars than that. It seems as if the throttle and idle cables would have been long enough but my idle cable was shot when I picked up the bike so I ordered all new cables via Drag Specialties as LA Choppers did not have the brake line that I needed. Otherwise I would have ordered directly from them as they have some great pre measured kits for taller bars.

I ordered +4” on everything except the brake lines and the throttle and idle cables along with the clutch could avhe been a few inches shorter. I think +2” would have done it but I could not find concrete info on what to order for my bike. Regardless, everything worked fine. For the dual disc brakes I found a braided stainless steel kit from Drag that was stock length for my bike and ordered a separate upper line that was 19” long. It said the kit was only for the lowers but low and behold when it arrived it had the upper line, the tee, and the lowers. I ended up using this entire kit and just bending the metal portion of the upper line to make it work. It fit perfect. I find this kind of strange as my stock upper line was unable to reach the bars regardless of how I bent it. At this point I could care less although I have some extra parts left over that I did not need.

Back to the bars. These bars are drilled for internal wiring and very easy to run the wires through as there are no straight corners (which usually have rough welds) for the wiring to be pulled through. In fact my normal procedure of using fishing line and a nut tied to the end to attach to the end of the wires was not necessary to get the wiring through. I merely pushed the wiring down into the bars and grabbed it with a needle nose when it got to the holes in the bottom. That is it. This is by far the easiest time I have ever had with internal wiring for handle bars. The stock wiring is plenty long for these bars as the Dyna has tons of wire run through the backbone of the frame. All that was necessary was to pull the wiring out of the frame (a pain compared to some other models) and run it through the bars. Normally I would disassemble the connectors (Deustch on my older bike) but I was unable to get them out of the frame so I cut and soldered the wiring with heat shrink. This proved to work fine although I think it took a little bit longer. I checked all connections before pulling the wiring back through the frame from behind the battery box to clean things up.

I had taken the tins off for paint so this was much simpler than it would have been with the tins on. The excess wire was neatly tucked away inside the battery box.

Back to the bars. I was sure they would have too much pullback for my taste but they were so comfortable I felt as if I was sitting in a chair relaxing the entire time I was on the bike. Also if you wish to change the angle fo the bars LA Choppers makes a set off offsets that will do just that. I was planning on picking a set of those up but it has proved unnecessary at this point in time. We’ll see how I feel after a 600 mile day but I still think that will not be necessary. Two thumbs way up for the high club bars from LA Choppers.