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Jun 4, 2012 | 11:13 PM

#21

lo-rider

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 4,990

Likes: 9

From: Marina del Rey

Quote:

Originally Posted by FXDWG12

...This is what I came up with:

...

Nice, neat job but, if I may be critical, that's quite a cantilever load you've created w/ the spacers, providing more leverage to twist the lifting arms.

Jun 5, 2012 | 08:15 AM

#22

FXDWG12

Thread Starter

Road Master

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 1,140

Likes: 6

From: Arkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by lo-rider

Nice, neat job but, if I may be critical, that's quite a cantilever load you've created w/ the spacers, providing more leverage to twist the lifting arms.

Ya I don't paticularly care for it either. However, the spaceing of the skids is the "ONLY" arrangement that will work on this bike. There is only ( 1 ) location under the bike that will work for the lifting arms. And still have tham as close as possibel to the center of the load. And there is only ( 1 ) location under the rear of the frame that the rear skid will work. The forward skid could be moved out further to match the rear skid cantilever. However, doing so would cause the clutch cable to be in danger of being crushed. The HD lifting blocks are usless also. There isn't enough clearance between the jack and frame to insert them.

I made my modifications to the jack based upon the information from this forum. So "Thank You Very Much" to the people who posted this information. However, there is a necessary change that need to be made to this mod. I didn't discover this new information untill I had completed the modification.
The mod ( as stated ) suggests bolting all the way through the skids and the lifting arms with 1/2" bolts. Someone even suggested using spacers inside the skid arms to keep from crushing the skid when tightening the bolts. The problem is that the skids on the OE jack are free floating. Sinching the bolts adds extra friction to the lifting mechanisim.
Solution: Spacers are needed all the way through the lifting skids. The holes in the skids will need to be drilled large enough for the spacer ( with bolts inside ) to pass completely through. The extra wide skid will need two spacers with washers inbetween to particion off the skid and keep it in the correct position.

Hope this helps someone.
Thanks
Randy

Last edited by FXDWG12; Jun 5, 2012 at 08:17 AM.

Jun 5, 2012 | 03:46 PM

#23

WVNightster

Road Captain

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 561

Likes: 1

From: West Virginia

Little FYI take some electrical tape and make 1 to 1 1/2 wraps around the docking point where the cam lock is.In a few miles that sucker is going to rattle and drive you nuts.I had to do the same thing to mine,as the tape wears out give the spacer a 1/4 turn or just wrap it again.Also I took and cut the mount for the back pad atachment,raised it up higher on the bar and had it repowder coated.Wife says the back rest pad is in a more comfortable position now.Oh yea nice scoot ya got there.