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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #231  
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Yes, it is not for cutting.
To answer your thread file question, watch this video.
Originally Posted by mattVA
Those are thread 'chasers' and not thread 'cutters' right? There's a difference.

Edit: I googled. They're thread chasers. How do you use those hand files?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:07 AM
  #232  
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Good to know

Originally Posted by soft 02
Yep. I got the Matco one before I realized ALL of them are the same.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:22 AM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by mattVA
There was a discussion on this a while back on HTT. I think Kastar makes these kits and they're all identical just re-branded. So you're paying extra for a fancy sticker. I just ordered the 48 piece Craftsman to add to my collection. Free shipping and was on sale.

Alan, you don't mind the thread hi-jacking since there won't be any updates for a while?
Of course not, all good stuff. It will be a bit slow until I get the case back but there are a few things I will do while waiting:

Transfer all the throttle body connections to my HPI 55mm tb
Install the Axtell Bypass Valve
Clean a ton of parts and fasteners
Install piston rings and pistons in cylinders - should get my cylinders and cylinder heads back next week
Install the Tman 590s into the cam plate
Anything else I can come up with?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:28 AM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
Install the Axtell Bypass Valve
IIRC light tapping with a 1/8" drill bit will get the roll pin out holding your pressure relief valve in your cam plate. Getting it back in is another story.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:41 AM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by mattVA
IIRC light tapping with a 1/8" drill bit will get the roll pin out holding your pressure relief valve in your cam plate. Getting it back in is another story.
No issue reinstalling the roll pin; have done it many times with the cam plate in place. Just start the roll pin, push the spring up past the pin bore with a small screw driver and tap the roll pin in. Once the pin is under the spring, just tap the pin all the way in. You will have to push up the spring one last time to get the pin to line up with the pin bore on the opposite side.

The Axtell piece is worth the cost, even for a bone stock motor.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:48 AM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by mattVA
Can you imagine springing a leak at the transmission/engine mating surface, only to find it after the engine is back together, exhaust is on, primary is on, fluids filled. .etc etc?
Yikes! That gave me the shivers too!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 12:05 PM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by djl
No issue reinstalling the roll pin; have done it many times with the cam plate in place. Just start the roll pin, push the spring up past the pin bore with a small screw driver and tap the roll pin in. Once the pin is under the spring, just tap the pin all the way in. You will have to push up the spring one last time to get the pin to line up with the pin bore on the opposite side.

The Axtell piece is worth the cost, even for a bone stock motor.
I will be pushing on the cap right? I understand that ideally the solid "bar" part on the end of the cap should be lined up with the roll pin.

 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #238  
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ALAN try not to tap out the pin completely from the other side. It will be hell of lot easier to get it back into the other side once you slip in the new plunger and spring.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 12:38 PM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by HD Bobber
ALAN try not to tap out the pin completely from the other side. It will be hell of lot easier to get it back into the other side once you slip in the new plunger and spring.
I have a new roll pin to use because the SM told me to(does not always mean it is necessary), so I will use it.

The pin installed by HD was sticking out on the outside of the cam plate and flush on the inside of cam plate - is that what y'all are doing?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 10:29 AM
  #240  
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Hi Alansummrs,
First off, I really appreciate the attention to detail that you've put in to this and other threads.
A question while we're waiting...I know I could ask HDBobber this question too...
It seems that if your having your indy split the cases then Darkhorse don't actually need the cases to do their magic right? Once your indy guy gets them back then he justs buttons it back up, there's nothing special Darkhorse needs to do?
If that's the case(pun intended) then that's great news for me and others that might have to this after checking crank run out.
 
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