Battery light still on
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
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From: San Jose
Battery light still on
So I have a 2013 street bob and my battery light came on and bike wouldn’t start or it jumped wouldn’t run for more than about 5 minutes, I replaced the stator, the regulator, the battery, and I’ve ridden twice since doing all that and it’ll start but it’ll start slow and after about 25 minutes the battery light will come on again. It hasn’t died on me yet but what else could be the issue so I’m not getting stranded somewhere? Lol
i cleared the codes and all that too and it still came back
Ive heard/read it could be the ignition coil, or the BCM?
i cleared the codes and all that too and it still came back
Ive heard/read it could be the ignition coil, or the BCM?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,540
Likes: 30,870
From: Pennsylvania
1. What were the codes?
2. What troubleshooting did you do to warrant replacement of the stator, regulator & battery?
3. Have you tested the new stator, regulator to see if they are putting out the correct voltage/amps to the battery for charging:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html
4. Do you get 14 or so VDC at the battery when measuring with a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) at 2000 rpm?
NOTE:
The above information, while credible, is worth what you paid for it and should not be considered gospel.
Do due diligence, research and have a H-D Field Service Manual before working on your bike.
You will probably have many opinions and suggestions presented; make sure you research the person providing the helpful information as there are some who provide good information and some who speak out of other orifices with gibberish. You will figure out this quickly.
2. What troubleshooting did you do to warrant replacement of the stator, regulator & battery?
3. Have you tested the new stator, regulator to see if they are putting out the correct voltage/amps to the battery for charging:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html
4. Do you get 14 or so VDC at the battery when measuring with a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) at 2000 rpm?
NOTE:
The above information, while credible, is worth what you paid for it and should not be considered gospel.
Do due diligence, research and have a H-D Field Service Manual before working on your bike.
You will probably have many opinions and suggestions presented; make sure you research the person providing the helpful information as there are some who provide good information and some who speak out of other orifices with gibberish. You will figure out this quickly.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 6
From: San Jose
So the codes I was getting were a p0562 which if I’m correct is a low voltage output code or something along those lines? Then for a second I had a p2300 and a p2303 code but I cleared them both and those 2 haven’t shown up again. As far as what trouble shooting j did prior to replacing all that was having the bike die on my at a gas station. Got a jump, rode for about 20 minutes before it died again, charged the battery, did the same thing, replaced the battery, same thing, then I checked the main fuse battery fuse ground connections battery cables and the entire wiring harness for the ignition switch and all of that seemed fine. I haven’t tested the new stator or regular yet though so I will go ahead and do that. I have double checked the 2 batteries I was using though both after a fresh charge as well as the new one k eventually put in and they all came back good, 13.5 voltage if I remember correctly and that’s with the bike off, and the CCA’s were above what was labeled on the batteries if that matters at all. I have my service manual and follow each step to the tee and i worked in the parts and service department for a Harley-Davidson dealership for 7+ years so I ran across an old master tech I worked with and he agreed it was probably the stator/regulator/battery that needed replacement. Unfortunately I don’t have his number so i can’t ask him what’s wrong now but I feel like I was pretty damn meticulous when doing this job so that’s why I’m confused on what’s going on still
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,540
Likes: 30,870
From: Pennsylvania
1. Test the battery voltage while the bike is running @ 2000 rpm it should be close or above 14 VDC. You should see the voltage rise from idle to 2000 rpm.
2. If not check the output from the voltage regulator and do the diagnostic check in the link I posted above.
3. If the voltage regulator check out fine, do the diagnostic check on the Stator.
4. Check all connections from the Stator to the Voltage Regulator and Voltage Regulator to the Battery.
5. Did you replace the Stator & Voltage Regulator with OEM or aftermarket? Cycle Electric is a good brand.
http://cycleelectricinc.com/
2. If not check the output from the voltage regulator and do the diagnostic check in the link I posted above.
3. If the voltage regulator check out fine, do the diagnostic check on the Stator.
4. Check all connections from the Stator to the Voltage Regulator and Voltage Regulator to the Battery.
5. Did you replace the Stator & Voltage Regulator with OEM or aftermarket? Cycle Electric is a good brand.
http://cycleelectricinc.com/
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,072
Likes: 1,006
it could be a ground issue. the regulator HAS TO BE GROUNDED!
some people as i have added a ground strap at the regulator mounting post to a known good ground, not relying on the mounting bolt. the one i have now, it is tapped for a 8-32 stainless fastener on the regulator body jumping to an engine fastener.
some people as i have added a ground strap at the regulator mounting post to a known good ground, not relying on the mounting bolt. the one i have now, it is tapped for a 8-32 stainless fastener on the regulator body jumping to an engine fastener.
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