Well. I'd guess it still works.. It's rate has changed slightly..

 

Nice things about the stock pumps used from 2000-up on TCs is that they have the wavy spring between the 2 plates that hold the gerotors in compression. This helps with pump sealing / leakage at low speeds and helps to keep the oil from draining out of the feed side so that pressure comes up quickly on startup.. Most aftermarket pumps rely on fixed side clearance for the low speed pressure and sealing. If they wear slightly, pressure at low speed drops and the oil light stays on for a few seconds before the feed side pump primes..

I've run 2 of the 2000 to 06 pumps and after some mileage the both exhibit the same no pressure for a few seconds.. Not having pressure is not much of an issue on the early TCs but I'd worry on the later ones where the outer cam journals run in a plain bearing. Probably good to get pressure up as soon as possible on those..

I swapped out one of the Fuelings with a SnS pump and the pressure issues are much better. Gerotors are bigger so the pump recovers from any leakage quicker (still new tho) .

Picture of Fueling rotor on top of SnS.





The duel scavenge rotors fix my sumping problem that I had with my FXR twincam where the single scavenge rotor of the Fueling couldn't handle constant RPMs above about 3000 for extended periods of time when the ambient temps were high (over 100). Motor would drag down and heat up until allowed to idle for a while.. Then it would recover quickly and run normal.

 

Yet, stretching the spring was the first "try this" direction given by fueling idiotic tech support....

 

I know this is two years old!

So I might have missed it but what did you do to resolve your low oil pressure?

Thanks for your time.

 

3) I got on the phone with the dealer (A very reputable Indy) I bought the kit from, told him what we were going through with the Idiots, and asked him to "Get me a new friggin' Cam Plate!, the dealer finally got the Idiots to overnight a new Plate (on his dime), the new Cam Plate got the Oil Pressure within the proper ranges."

 

Ok thank you, do you know exactly what the issue was with the original Feuling cam plate they replaced?

Also do you remember any of the oil pressure values you had with the bad plate and the good plate?

Pressure
Oil temp

I really appreciate you answering my questions!

 

It appeared that there was more than one issue with the fueling cam plate,,, all quality control related,,, after initial install, during heat cycles, and initial run-in on the Dyno,,, the oil pressure was a little low, but what really bothered us was that the oil pressure was fluctuating significantly at steady RPM / Temp... Called fueling idiotic tech support and suggested to give fueling a CC # to overnight a new Plate,,, NO, f.i.t.s. had a better idea,,, try this, try that... with no regard to spending my labor dollars,,, first teardown, found "a substance similar to Loctite on the Plunger" cleaned up, reassembled, re-installed, pressure was a little better, but still fluctuated at steady RPM/Temp... anyway,,, two more times of trying this, trying that,,, stretching Spring,,, replacing Spring UNDER FUELING'S DIRECTION,,, finally (on the 4th time in the Cam Chest ) along with multiple test rides A NEW PLATE CURED THE PROBLEMS We surmised that there was some kind of internal issue with the original fueling plate, the irony is that fueling sells test gauges for Cam Plates,,, 'guess they didn't test their own???

I didn't ride the Bike with "the bad plate",, the Tech and the General Manager didn't want to release the Bike with a malfunctioning Oil System ('Don't blame them,,, I wouldn't either...)

After 25k miles Dakota Digital Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauges were installed,,, Oil Temp stays < the low 240s in almost all conditions,,, Oil Pressure 38 PSI at extended 100 MPH running,,, 10 PSI at heat soaked idle ambient temps in the 90s...

 

2 problems. Jim Fueling died in 2002.. You don't need a special cam plate. If you were going high lift cams and heavy springs, maybe..

 

Thank you very much for your explanation. I put a Feuling OE+ cam plate in with Zippers duel piston tensioners, new cams, lifters, long story short, I wasn’t getting the oil pressure I had expected. Pressure was good cold but I wasn’t satisfied when the oil got up to temp, 230*. At an idle I had 10ish,2000 rpm I had 18-20 both at 230*. I thought I had more with the stock plate, oil pump etc..... @ 230*.
So I just wanted more info on your experience to compare notes. We’ve used 3 different oil pressure gauges, OEM dash gauge, VDO mechanical gauge with 5 pound increments and a OTC mechanics oil pressure gauge test set we bought for testing purposes. We also have a laser temp gun for temp accuracy, on my bike I put in an oil temp gauge to replace the air temp gauge, ironically the oil temp gauge is close to the temp taken off the oil pan next to the oil temp sending unit.
The OTC test gauge netted the best pressure of the three.
My test details:
I did a cold start pressure,
At 2 min took another pressure
At 5 min another pressure, one at idle, one at 2000 rpm and one at 3500
At 10 min pressure at the three rpm’s and started noting oil temp
At 20 min, idle, 2000 and 3000 and temp
And last the same as above at 25 min

To some degree I’m starting to think we are chasing our tail.

I have the stock cam plate in with stock tensioners, the Feuling OE+ oil pump and an LMR 002 oil pressure spring. I have acceptable oil pressure at all rpms and oil temps now.
I’m in Minnesota and right now it’s kinda hard to do real life testing. The best I can do is a static heat/pressure test in my shop.
I’m fortunate enough to be able to do all the work myself.
Like I said, short story. Lol!

Anyway I can’t attributed the pressure issues to any one thing at this time, so that’s why I asked you about your experience so I had some ideas on what your issues where. I’m in the process of elimination at this point.

Thanks again for explaining your experience, I didn’t have fluctuating oil pressure issues, just lower than I had anticipated at temperature.

Thank you sir, I appreciate your time!
2012 FLHTK with 52’xxx miles

 

I like the Zipper's Dual Piston Tensioners, they contribute to the quiet Camchest, and seem to be wearing very well (very little) at 43k miles...

Also a big fan of the Dakota Digital Gauges, very accurate, easy to read, it's nice to correlate the readings in real time going down the road...

Using Mobil1 20-50 V-Twin or Redline 20-60 V-Twin

Breathers vented to ground...