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Fuel Moto pushrods

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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 08:54 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 94 ultra
For me I am just gonna use the SE tapered adjustables this time
I am pretty sure they will suit my mild 110 FM build
and they will be easier to adjust for me
That's what I use but in reality use what ever works for you.
For me the SE Tapered work well.
 
Old Jun 2, 2017 | 10:39 AM
  #42  
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Meaningless details? "What is a form of power loss?"

And you give advice? you just don't like someone who knows as much or more, beings you clearly have more talent than most - maybe you can do a dyno comparison & post the findings here? That way it would be done right - right?

So instead of your mis informed on going prattle that leads to this kind of banter, why don't you just show us all - please teach us you harley sensai.... please no one other than you could know anything. Wow - ya try to just help some one & other keyboard know it all commandos chime in just to have a say & talk crap.
 
Old Jun 2, 2017 | 11:54 AM
  #43  
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Oh **** it, it's Friday

Originally Posted by LXT
...why don't you just show us all
{cough} erm... You brought it up

Originally Posted by LXT
So instead of your mis informed on going prattle that leads to this kind of banter,
and there was me thinking that it was the initial bold opinion, with no foundation or evidence, that lead to this kind of banter
 
Old Jun 2, 2017 | 12:10 PM
  #44  
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One of my decisions was that I wanted to keep the stock tubes with the smaller section at the top, rather than the replacement tubes that kind of look more half n half.

plus I saved some wonga for beer, why change it if you don't have to, right? as good a reason as any other I would imagine.
 
Old Jun 2, 2017 | 12:28 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by LXT
Meaningless details? "What is a form of power loss?"

And you give advice? you just don't like someone who knows as much or more, beings you clearly have more talent than most - maybe you can do a dyno comparison & post the findings here? That way it would be done right - right?

So instead of your mis informed on going prattle that leads to this kind of banter, why don't you just show us all - please teach us you harley sensai.... please no one other than you could know anything. Wow - ya try to just help some one & other keyboard know it all commandos chime in just to have a say & talk crap.
Not a Harley sensai, just a shade tree hack but even with my limited knowledge and experience, when I read BS, I have to call BS which I have done. So, point made and no need for more misinformed prattle from me but the keyboard commandos may still chime in.

I never said I didn't like you; hell, I don't know you, I just read what you post. I think I can disagree with you and anyone else on this forum should I so choose. I am sure we could enjoy a beer and some BBQ anytime.
 
Old Jun 2, 2017 | 04:03 PM
  #46  
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It all good
 

Last edited by 94 ultra; Jun 3, 2017 at 08:22 AM.
Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:11 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by LXT
Sigh.... djl - you & I are like oil & water when it comes to agreeing on things, really..... rod flex & plug index is not at the top of your list?

Wow, I would of thought with the components you use, the big bore jobs, cam upgrades, advice on builds, etc... you would focus on the details - well those things you mentioned I do take a little more serious & that's what separates a git r done mechanic from a sought after mechanic.

I guess when you have head work done, valves, seats, springs, etc... & do that for more power - having a PR flex at crucial RPM bands creating a form of power loss due to valve actuation being hindered is just fine? IDK - spending tons of money for HP then going with a PR that basically costs you HP is not real smart & money in the

But I guess when its not ones money they are spending - then spend away!
I have the screamin eagle tapered push-rods in my bike. Are you suggesting that if I changed to Smith bros pushrods I will gain power? Please explain.
 
Old Jun 4, 2017 | 09:15 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Arseclown
I have the screamin eagle tapered push-rods in my bike. Are you suggesting that if I changed to Smith bros pushrods I will gain power? Please explain.
The load and speed of the lifter changing direction creates tremendous bending forces that makes the pushrod deflect and cause problems. A pushrod under deflection stores energy as it bends and then releases that energy in an uncontrolled fashion. The pushrod is no longer a solid link transferring motion at precise moments. Instead it moves erratically, creating a wave of ill-timed events that shortens duration and controls the valve differently from the shape of the cam lobe.
The angularity differences between lifters and cups or adjusting on the rocker arms can also contribute to deflection, as will the additional load caused by increasing rocker ratios or spring pressure. These angles can cause side-loading, most of which is generated at the lower end of the pushrod. Deflection can result in harmonics that often cause the pushrod to “hula” around and rub the block and/or heads.
Since a pushrod is longest when it’s perfectly straight, any change also affects length. Events of the valvetrain are carefully orchestrated to gain maximum performance, and altering the push-rod length means less lift (or erratic lift as it springs back into shape) that alters the scheduled events. The rocker will not see full travel in relation to the lobe profile, and the valve will not open correctly.

This is a "pasted" break down of what I'm talking about & said better than I could say it - this is from a speed & performance forum I am on.

Look - will most here notice PR flex "stealing" a few HP? probably not - But if you`re gonna spend big bucks on gaining HP why short yourself on a simple item for a few bucks & a little more time? the attention is in the details & to overlook those - well, its just not the way to do things.

Strangely enough - last night I'm on RT 18 in the potter twp pa area & a guy was at road side wrenching on his scoot - I stop & see if all is ok - PR tubes off & adjusting his S&S PR`s as he just did a cam chain tensioner upgrade. it just needed a little tweak as he put it - guy looked like Arnold off happy days, I stayed until he got it fired up - 10 - 15 min adjustment at roadside - nothing major - But, this is what I'm talking about some rods need adjusted even after you have it set up right in the garage or think you do?

Either way - what ever your build & whatever you do - good luck & be safe!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2017 | 09:20 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by djl

I never said I didn't like you; hell, I don't know you, I just read what you post. I think I can disagree with you and anyone else on this forum should I so choose. I am sure we could enjoy a beer and some BBQ anytime.

djl - all is good, hell a BBQ & a beer would be an awesome thing - chances are we are probably more alike than different.
 
Old Jun 4, 2017 | 09:26 AM
  #50  
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Everyone knows u just made that story up...come on now. Let this thread be dead. FM would probably appreciate it.
 



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