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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Hi all.
Not exactly a new issue by any means. My inner cam bearing decided to explore what the term “disintegrate” means and succeeded quite admirably. Fragments broke a couple of teeth off the cam gear amongst other damage. The difficult one is the bearing seat which is badly scored from bearing spin I gather and thus the crux of my dilemma. (I replaced the engine with a good used, low mileage unit from a ‘96 Fatboy). My question is: can the bearing seat be repaired (I.e. machined, insert back to standard or machined for oversize etc) WITHOUT TAKING THE CASES APART? All pieces of the bearing were recovered. Has anyone done a repair this way?
I suppose in theory you could, but I'm not sure why anyone would. Whatever machine work is done to re form the bearing seat is going to produce swarf, and swarf has a habit of ending up where you least want it.
Well, yes, no, maybe. It's all subjective to how bad the bore is, who does it, and what you're looking for in the end. Oversize bearing - not available to my knowledge.
Machined, welded and re-bored or sleeved, would require splitting the cases, which isn't a big deal since it's already "on the ground." Left side takes some work, but the right case is easy to separate after the cylinders are off.
They'd have to have the right case only and use the nose cone as a centering jig. The bearing bore has to be centered with the nose cone cam bushing.
If you're confident you got it all cleaned out, I've seen this done on cam bearings, and have personally done it on many other applications with great success. If the bore is simply loose (and that's a judgement call) and not wallowed out of round, you can carefully peen with a sharp punch several places around the inside bore and install the new bearing with Loctite 640. Takes some patience but very do-able. And heaven help you if you get any on the rollers!
It really is best to have the cylinders off to at least get a magnet down in there to insure there's no pieces left in the case. Doesn't take much debris getting into the main/pinion bearings or blown back into the cam side to trash it out all over again.
If you took it to a shop, chances are they'd tell you "no, have to split the cases." If you had a Twin Cam under warranty that spun the bearing and took it to a dealer, chances are they'd do what I just described above, (but they would never tell you the did it).
Thanks for the feedback guys. I assumed as much but was hoping for a miracle. Well I do have the time especially now in Covid 19 season and retired and a beer fridge in my shed. Time to get dirty. Cheers.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I assumed as much but was hoping for a miracle. Well I do have the time especially now in Covid 19 season and retired and a beer fridge in my shed. Time to get dirty. Cheers.
I feel your pain, brother. My current bobber build is a month delayed because the tappet cuff screw broke on disassembly and then the EZ out broke off in the screw. I ended up just getting new cases. I'm finally ready to get the engine built.
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