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Diving into 1999 TC88 Tensioner Replacement

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Old Nov 23, 2024 | 04:32 PM
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Default Diving into 1999 TC88 Tensioner Replacement

I'd like to gather some recommendations before getting any further with my 20k mile 1999 FXDX. I inspected the tensioners at 10k and the wear was not bad at all. Now, at 20k, the outer pad is not awful but the inner is more than I'd like to run any further. Time to address them.

I bought this bike used with no paperwork. It was dyno'd last year with 98 hp/98 tq. Dyno tuner says it definitely has a big bore kit/cams for those numbers. Not sure what cams are in it but the outer cam gear is marked Andrews. I was quite surprised to find the bike does not have adjustable pushrods. I'd figure with any motor work the builder would have installed adjustable pushrods but I guess not.

I was in the rocker box assembly last year, updating to the newer stamped breathers and replacing leaky gaskets. I really don't want to get back in there! Any recommendations on a quality adjustable pushrod? I'm thinking S&S here.

Also, beginning this last riding season, the lifters started to make cold start up tick. The noise goes away very quickly but I think now is the time to replace all the lifters. Suggestions here?

I am aiming towards Cyco tensioners and keeping the cams I have. Love the way it runs and don't want to mess up a good thing. Being a 1999 I will verify it has the updated outer bearing and see if it has Torrington inner cam bearings. If so, I don't plan on touching them.

Any other suggestions before diving in?

Outer pad at 10k:

Outer pad now at 20k:
 

Last edited by garystaven88; Nov 23, 2024 at 04:43 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2024 | 09:37 PM
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Thinking about it more I think I may go ahead and disassemble the rocker boxes again and just reuse my solid pushrods. Too many horror stories of adjustable pushrods flexing and loosening up causing catasrophic failure for my liking now that I am doing more research.

Adjustable pushrods are all I know coming from Shovelheads and Ironheads but I guess they are a different breed on a Twin Cam?

Overthinking this?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2024 | 03:07 AM
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Both solid and adjustable works fine, and I think failure from adjustables breaking is quite rare.

Reusing the solid ones adds some labour, going for adjustable adds some cost, you will want to get shorter pushrod covers as well to be able to actually adjust the rods.

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Old Nov 24, 2024 | 06:14 AM
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My suggestion is keep this thread updated with more pictures and thanks for sharing.

Just me but I would go with OEM replacement parts with complete new spring replacement tensioners. Mine made it to 50k and are original and still fine. (Bike is just eye candy at present)

Not long ago, someone had one down that there rebuilt shoe had came apart . So if you rebuild it, follow the instructions closely.

Same for those adjustable pushrods. There a nightmare for some. They end up confused talking about about another 1/2 turn and such.

Get them right half way into lifter travel and lock them. There's no torque wrench that works , so experience plays a big part in success.

When set correctly, your 0.100 into lifter piston total travel of 0.200. No way heat or cold will make that amount of travel not enough.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Nov 24, 2024 at 06:23 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 03:43 PM
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Gave it some thought on the route I wanted to take with the pushrods. I chose to go with the S&S Quickee kit complete with the tubes and associated seals. I spoke with S&S... they have had no issues with Quickees even in their big inch motors. As for the threat of pushrods loosening up, I have a Shovelhead, I have had a few Ironhead sportsters in the past which required frequent pushrod adjustments.... I never had one come loose. Not saying it don't happen but I'm going to be paying very close attention when I lock those nuts down.

I also went with the S&S precision lifters. 20k miles with a bit of cold startup tick this past season I think it is best to just go ahead and replace the lifters.

As for the tensioners I am going with the Cyco Gasket tensioners. Hopefully when the performance cam was installed by the previous owner they addressed the outer bearing issue specific to the 1999 and upgraded to Torrington inner cam bearings.... all things I will check when I am in there.

Anything else I should be upgrading while in here? I have not had any oil pump or pressure problems.
 

Last edited by garystaven88; Nov 25, 2024 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2024 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by garystaven88
Anything else I should be upgrading while in here? I have not had any oil pump or pressure problems.
If you don't have a tool to remove the inner tensioner without removing the cams, the outer bearings should be replaced. Should you have to remove the cams, when reinstalling, pay close attention to the alignment of the timing marks on the sprockets; a common error. You did not mention the inner cam bearings but if they have not been upgraded from the OEM INA bearings to the full compliment bearings they should be replaced with the Toyo/Torrington B148 bearings. The OEM oil pump is quite adequate for your situation but IMHO should be inspected while you have the cam chest open. A common upgrade to the early OEM oil pump is the addition of the Baisley LMR.2 oil pressure relief valve spring. Also wouldn't hurt to polish up the little pressure relief piston to insure it moves freely in the bore. A lot of owners don't bother with this detail but I like to mark the chain and index it to the sprockets so it goes back just the way it came off.

The only failures I have seen reported on the CYCO tensioners have been the result of "operator error" when peening the connecting pin that secures the tensioner to the holder so pay attention. If you have not been in the cam chest before, you might want to watch a few videos on the process. The service manual for your bike will be useful, if you have it. Only thing else I can suggest is making sure you have all the parts needed as well as the proper tools before diving in.

Good luck with the project.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2024 | 05:44 PM
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I am not a fan of adjustables on a bolt in TC cam, I have seen a few come loose, if replacing the lifters you can save time and effort by drifting out the rocker spindles (at TDC compression) and fitting the lifters dry with the rockers out of the way, then you just line it all up and drift the spindles back in. Motor will click on startup but the lifters will pump up in a few minutes.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2024 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
If you don't have a tool to remove the inner tensioner without removing the cams, the outer bearings should be replaced. Should you have to remove the cams, when reinstalling, pay close attention to the alignment of the timing marks on the sprockets; a common error. You did not mention the inner cam bearings but if they have not been upgraded from the OEM INA bearings to the full compliment bearings they should be replaced with the Toyo/Torrington B148 bearings. The OEM oil pump is quite adequate for your situation but IMHO should be inspected while you have the cam chest open. A common upgrade to the early OEM oil pump is the addition of the Baisley LMR.2 oil pressure relief valve spring. Also wouldn't hurt to polish up the little pressure relief piston to insure it moves freely in the bore. A lot of owners don't bother with this detail but I like to mark the chain and index it to the sprockets so it goes back just the way it came off.

The only failures I have seen reported on the CYCO tensioners have been the result of "operator error" when peening the connecting pin that secures the tensioner to the holder so pay attention. If you have not been in the cam chest before, you might want to watch a few videos on the process. The service manual for your bike will be useful, if you have it. Only thing else I can suggest is making sure you have all the parts needed as well as the proper tools before diving in.

Good luck with the project.
Thank you. Yes I’m aware of the inferior INA inner can bearings. Since it does have aftermarket cams I am hoping the installer addressed it at that time but I will soon find out. I did buy the $105 inner cam shoe tool to remove the tensioner without having to press the cams out.

I have heard of the Baisley spring and I should probably go ahead and install one. Did not know about polishing up the pressure relief piston but I will look at that.

I had that exact thought process in my head of marking the outer and inner chains exactly where they mate with the gears to reinstall exactly the same way.

Lots of great cam chest service videos on YouTube including “Death Proof Productions” channel which goes heavily into the Cyco tensioners. J&P has a great video with a S&S tech installing adjustable rods and new lifters as well.

I will pay attention to peening over the pins on the tensioners.
 

Last edited by garystaven88; Nov 26, 2024 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2024 | 12:31 PM
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I am having a hell of a time trying to get the cam sprocket off. This is a 1999 so it is not splined… it has a keyway.

Suggestions here?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2024 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by garystaven88
Thank you. Yes I’m aware of the inferior INA inner can bearings. Since it does have aftermarket cams I am hoping the installer addressed it at that time but I will soon find outrs.
The issue was they used ball bearins front and rear, which is what they did with gears, The ball bearings could not handle the side loading of the chains. Mid year 2000? they went to ball bearing on the rear cam. I may have the ball and roller backwards.

People will calling for a class action lawsuit.
https://www.insurancejournal.com/mag...7/23/82360.htm
 
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