If it was my bike I'd be tearing that engine down for inspection. You really need to find out the source of that mystery metal that's recirculating through the engine. Check the pinion shaft runout, too. The scoring you see in the oil pump & breather gear bore are symptoms of another problem.

 

If you have no engine experience dont mess with the bottom end!
It's not worth the learning curve for just one.
Use a REAL REPUTABLE shop.
You want rebuilt rods and bearings with a new crank throw.
There are options as to- two oil holes, or three holes.
New small end bushings
I would just go with new and better rods.....what to heck..
The cases need special attn to and all special tools.
Starting with a press.
Then you need to discuss crank balance ...
If a good time to replace pistons do it NOW as they need their weights.
This is a GREAT time to by AXTELL 85 inch drop ins cylinders and pistons
WEEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee its a slipery slope!

 

I agree, take your time and play detective. I also agree don't mess with the bottom end till you have no other option. Sorry for your misfortune, but take it slow and turn it into an opportunity. YD

 

 

If it were me I'd pull motor, take off the top end and send the cases to have the breather bored.
Before I sent the cases I'd operate the rods by hand to see if I could feel any problems with the crank.
If the crank was bad or I felt some grit in the bearings then I'd simply replace the crank with an S&S stroker crank.

I guess my point is you can quickly run up the cost of a stock motor trying to rebuild it when you would be better off using that money to do upgrades while you are there.

 

 

 

ok I will enter into this - a few things are and come into play - your pump picked up debris big pieces, usually that type of damage inside an oil pump is not a good sign, while I could agree with the tear into the engine looking for this issue that caused the oil pump to trash out -- I have done this both ways as in went looking for what has happened, the cause and found nothing 50 percent of the time - its a crap shoot - the second part if you look at it this way you did not say what the issue is or was that brought you to taking the pump apart I would like to know that piece of this

what I have done with guys that are money strapped, the oil pump shaft can be left in place and a replacement aftermarket pump install with out changing the shaft this lets you just swap out the body and gearing < can explain if you go this way
second part of this - yes on the breather valve is also damaged and another yes its quite possible its the INA cam bearing that did this damage - first you need to remove all the oil lines and oil tank and clean the oil tank ( spotless ) did I say spotless no joke you need to clean it as if it was brand new in the box -- then the cam bearing replacement koyo bought out Torrington so that will be your new bearing going in, be sure to check the end of the cam that was in the INA bearing for damage as you may need a cam also almost 1/2 the time its hurt - and finally the breather cavity can even if damaged support a standard size S&S reed breather it would be a plug and play no boring no machining needed -

this would give you a year to get funds together so a complete teardown and inspection can be done - have done it like this many times - if you go into it now you will be boring the cylinders replacing the engine roller bearings all of them and the main bearing BUT yes this is a brandade type repair but it will give you time to put the necessary funds for a complete over haul and at this spot your in your loss is one cam bearing and a breather and some gaskets - this only will work if the engine is not making a racket type noises at this point in time

 

Stock Evo rods are good parts & seldom fail. If necessary the rod races can be lapped & new rollers installed. Poster regarding crank throw meant the crankpin I believe.

 

Crank end, big end, crank throw, crank pin- all the same over here.