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`you will be looking for metal damage on turning pieces - wear - and this part is not easy for a novis some precision measuring instruments is going to be needed and special tooling
reach out to all you know who rides and collect up anyone who has some of the tooling, so knowledge about the job at hand can be helpful to you and possible a friendly shop also helps
this is not a carb re jet this is a thing to do never have done before hope you are up for it
yeah completely understand this lol.
I work in a tool hire / repair shop. Now whilst I understand that tools and engines are kind of similar but not the same I do have experience repairing power tools with gears / cogs/ wowsers and weavers / bearings / damage and such like etc etc.
I feel so so long as I take my time and I am sure before proceeding to the next step one step at a time this is something that I can achieve. I mean there will certainly be some instances where I will have a shop do some things for me. But the goal here is to get the bike back to full heatlth and running, all whilst only paying for the the really necessary things.
Lots of good info here but I don't believe that aluminum did the damage here. I also don't think anything in the heads could have cause it... I had a crank pin shear and still drove the bike a little to get home. Upon a tear down of the motor I found that the because the crank pin sheared, the right half of the crank (cam side) rode against the inner motor case housing shaving the aluminum away. My point here is that upon completion of the tear down inspection, I did not have any damage to the oi pump that had picked up all the soft aluminum but did need to bore the breather gear and install an over sized breather. My oil filter was packed with Aluminum but the pump gear and housing had no damage at all. So I would definitely be looking for cam bearing or even lifter roller bearings.. Did you cut open the oil filter. One more thing, as stated earlier. You don't need to pull oil pump shaft unless it bent....
Oh wow you had a serious issue and tear down lol.
You did this yourself at home? Nice job.
The metal flake I have found so far in oil filter pump and cam case is nowhere near as big or thick or as much as yours. Mine is almost dusty. ..
most oil pumps now come with a new shaft so better to replace anyways. Plus engine will already be out so again I guess it makes sense to replace it.
Unfortunatley i I threw the oil filter away before I got as far as I am now , so I cant cut it open. I do still have the drained oil so I think I will put a magnet in the container and go fishing.
Advice is as free as the air we breathe....
Mine- If you are average with tools,
keep taking things apart until you get to a stripped engine.
If you have not found the problem, then send the case and crank out to a pro,
as it is beyond the scope of the novice.
It's not that you could not do it-, like I said,- the learning curve is pretty steep and tool investment
pretty deep.
This is just not worth biting into if it is a problem with the case halves or crank. (for a one time shot)
Advice is as free as the air we breathe....
Mine- If you are average with tools,
keep taking things apart until you get to a stripped engine.
If you have not found the problem, then send the case and crank out to a pro,
as it is beyond the scope of the novice.
It's not that you could not do it-, like I said,- the learning curve is pretty steep and tool investment
pretty deep.
This is just not worth biting into if it is a problem with the case halves or crank. (for a one time shot)
i will do just that kingglide
Advice is free but not everyone is as kind as forhcoming and you guys on here. So thank you again especially for your patience...
heres the thing though say i get to the point I have the engine out and stripped and found nothing wrong with the cam the bearings the lifters the casings etc etc.
Wouldnt that suggest that the plastic breather was the problem?
we have already found scoring from / inside the oil pump and breather. Doesnt this mean that we dont necessarily need to have damage elsewhere in the engine.
that scoring is a hi carbon steel issue as grains of alloy from a breather gear does not do that type damage to an oil pump leads back to the issue at hand and the experience to find it
that scoring is a hi carbon steel issue as grains of alloy from a breather gear does not do that type damage to an oil pump leads back to the issue at hand and the experience to find it
ah yeah ok I got ya,
well that stands to reason that on that I will find something then lol. But like you say if not then I will have to get somebody to check it out
Daz
Without the autopsy and forensics-
You have to keep removing parts.
Guesswork from all of us is helpful.
If all you find is aluminum parts and the only damage is in the breather bore well that is then the safe bet.
Do you have the rocker boxes off?
experience says-
If there is more to this, if just aluminum shrapnel, it will be from something not right in the valve train area.
look there.
Are you sure the inner cam bearing is ok?
Next
if crank bearings started spinning in case bores I would have thought you would have heard that mess.
You will narrow it dwn.
Maybe a piston came apart slowly...? I have seen skirts get broken off and ground up
So the disassembly has begin, made a good start, im in no rush,
i would like to ask if someone could run through a quick step by step on clutch and compensator removal? Im not sure if i need a spring compressor tool for the clutch , Obviously i want to make sure i do this correctly, so better to ask than to just get at it lol
I have the factory service manual , however i am finding it a little cryptic.. Heres what it says....
Also would like someone to look at my chain adjuster, it looks like somebody has cut up some square plate washers, im not sure this is correct, or did somebody bodge this?
the comp nut you need a rattle gun and 1 1/2 socket the clutch back off on the adjustment screw and remove the clip then remove the nut and it is ( left thread )
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