oil pump help please
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 327
Likes: 2
From: Southampton U.K
ok I will enter into this - a few things are and come into play - your pump picked up debris big pieces, usually that type of damage inside an oil pump is not a good sign, while I could agree with the tear into the engine looking for this issue that caused the oil pump to trash out -- I have done this both ways as in went looking for what has happened, the cause and found nothing 50 percent of the time - its a crap shoot - the second part if you look at it this way you did not say what the issue is or was that brought you to taking the pump apart I would like to know that piece of this
what I have done with guys that are money strapped, the oil pump shaft can be left in place and a replacement aftermarket pump install with out changing the shaft this lets you just swap out the body and gearing < can explain if you go this way
second part of this - yes on the breather valve is also damaged and another yes its quite possible its the INA cam bearing that did this damage - first you need to remove all the oil lines and oil tank and clean the oil tank ( spotless ) did I say spotless no joke you need to clean it as if it was brand new in the box -- then the cam bearing replacement koyo bought out Torrington so that will be your new bearing going in, be sure to check the end of the cam that was in the INA bearing for damage as you may need a cam also almost 1/2 the time its hurt - and finally the breather cavity can even if damaged support a standard size S&S reed breather it would be a plug and play no boring no machining needed -
this would give you a year to get funds together so a complete teardown and inspection can be done - have done it like this many times - if you go into it now you will be boring the cylinders replacing the engine roller bearings all of them and the main bearing BUT yes this is a brandade type repair but it will give you time to put the necessary funds for a complete over haul and at this spot your in your loss is one cam bearing and a breather and some gaskets - this only will work if the engine is not making a racket type noises at this point in time
what I have done with guys that are money strapped, the oil pump shaft can be left in place and a replacement aftermarket pump install with out changing the shaft this lets you just swap out the body and gearing < can explain if you go this way
second part of this - yes on the breather valve is also damaged and another yes its quite possible its the INA cam bearing that did this damage - first you need to remove all the oil lines and oil tank and clean the oil tank ( spotless ) did I say spotless no joke you need to clean it as if it was brand new in the box -- then the cam bearing replacement koyo bought out Torrington so that will be your new bearing going in, be sure to check the end of the cam that was in the INA bearing for damage as you may need a cam also almost 1/2 the time its hurt - and finally the breather cavity can even if damaged support a standard size S&S reed breather it would be a plug and play no boring no machining needed -
this would give you a year to get funds together so a complete teardown and inspection can be done - have done it like this many times - if you go into it now you will be boring the cylinders replacing the engine roller bearings all of them and the main bearing BUT yes this is a brandade type repair but it will give you time to put the necessary funds for a complete over haul and at this spot your in your loss is one cam bearing and a breather and some gaskets - this only will work if the engine is not making a racket type noises at this point in time
So the start of this problem was that as that I was getting a low oil pressure light .. but only when the bike was up to running temperature not when it was colder and the oil was thicker.
I cheched the oil oil levels to begin with and then tried changing the oil pressure sensor.
Then after that that we fixed to inspect he pump which has lead is to where we are now
So so are you saying that if I get the cases split now I will deffo have to replace the engine roller bearings? And the main bearing?
also the cam? Or only if the cam is damaged?
daz
Banned
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 4,576
Likes: 978
From: Viet Vet, crossroads
The cam bearing should be replaced no matter what. (they are inferior)
As for the rest of it, no one will know until you get some pieces off.
Perhaps you will find nothing else wrong,as it was all the breather doing this.
As for the rest of it, no one will know until you get some pieces off.
Perhaps you will find nothing else wrong,as it was all the breather doing this.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 327
Likes: 2
From: Southampton U.K
ok I will enter into this - a few things are and come into play - your pump picked up debris big pieces, usually that type of damage inside an oil pump is not a good sign, while I could agree with the tear into the engine looking for this issue that caused the oil pump to trash out -- I have done this both ways as in went looking for what has happened, the cause and found nothing 50 percent of the time - its a crap shoot - the second part if you look at it this way you did not say what the issue is or was that brought you to taking the pump apart I would like to know that piece of this
what I have done with guys that are money strapped, the oil pump shaft can be left in place and a replacement aftermarket pump install with out changing the shaft this lets you just swap out the body and gearing < can explain if you go this way
second part of this - yes on the breather valve is also damaged and another yes its quite possible its the INA cam bearing that did this damage - first you need to remove all the oil lines and oil tank and clean the oil tank ( spotless ) did I say spotless no joke you need to clean it as if it was brand new in the box -- then the cam bearing replacement koyo bought out Torrington so that will be your new bearing going in, be sure to check the end of the cam that was in the INA bearing for damage as you may need a cam also almost 1/2 the time its hurt - and finally the breather cavity can even if damaged support a standard size S&S reed breather it would be a plug and play no boring no machining needed -
this would give you a year to get funds together so a complete teardown and inspection can be done - have done it like this many times - if you go into it now you will be boring the cylinders replacing the engine roller bearings all of them and the main bearing BUT yes this is a brandade type repair but it will give you time to put the necessary funds for a complete over haul and at this spot your in your loss is one cam bearing and a breather and some gaskets - this only will work if the engine is not making a racket type noises at this point in time
what I have done with guys that are money strapped, the oil pump shaft can be left in place and a replacement aftermarket pump install with out changing the shaft this lets you just swap out the body and gearing < can explain if you go this way
second part of this - yes on the breather valve is also damaged and another yes its quite possible its the INA cam bearing that did this damage - first you need to remove all the oil lines and oil tank and clean the oil tank ( spotless ) did I say spotless no joke you need to clean it as if it was brand new in the box -- then the cam bearing replacement koyo bought out Torrington so that will be your new bearing going in, be sure to check the end of the cam that was in the INA bearing for damage as you may need a cam also almost 1/2 the time its hurt - and finally the breather cavity can even if damaged support a standard size S&S reed breather it would be a plug and play no boring no machining needed -
this would give you a year to get funds together so a complete teardown and inspection can be done - have done it like this many times - if you go into it now you will be boring the cylinders replacing the engine roller bearings all of them and the main bearing BUT yes this is a brandade type repair but it will give you time to put the necessary funds for a complete over haul and at this spot your in your loss is one cam bearing and a breather and some gaskets - this only will work if the engine is not making a racket type noises at this point in time
Spoke to my dad who said it had a Torrington bearing fitted when the screaming eagle cam was installed.
Daz
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 327
Likes: 2
From: Southampton U.K
ok guys thanks again for the input. Its obvious to me now that the engine needs to be pulled. So just to help me out a little if anyone wouldnt mind just briefly bullet pointing what I need to do step by step. And any special tools I may need.
Step 1. is engine out and I think I need a 1-1/2 and 1-3/16 socket for this correct?
daz
Step 1. is engine out and I think I need a 1-1/2 and 1-3/16 socket for this correct?
daz
Banned
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 4,576
Likes: 978
From: Viet Vet, crossroads
This will be a slippery slope as its too EZ do upgrades whilst there !
unhook battery first
Remeber the clutch nut goes the opposite direction to get it off.
Try not to use a rattle gun on those parts
Use heat to release any Loctite.
A little propane torch is not good enough
a propane-oxygen set up is perfect.
keep track of shims on the crank and on cam .
unhook battery first
Remeber the clutch nut goes the opposite direction to get it off.
Try not to use a rattle gun on those parts
Use heat to release any Loctite.
A little propane torch is not good enough
a propane-oxygen set up is perfect.
keep track of shims on the crank and on cam .
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,448
From: la la land jerzey
you need a factory service manual and parts so you have a road map, lots of questions will be answered just reading the correct section and the correct part numbers will be available to your job as well
do that first the guys can and will help with all the small details / socket sizes tools that will work kind of thing
do that first the guys can and will help with all the small details / socket sizes tools that will work kind of thing
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 327
Likes: 2
From: Southampton U.K
Ok guys great. I do have a factory service manual so thats a start lol.
So clutch nut is left handed and compensator nut is normal?
With regards to upgrades the bike already has high compression positions and a screaming eagle cam and a Torrington bearing I believe
Daz
So clutch nut is left handed and compensator nut is normal?
With regards to upgrades the bike already has high compression positions and a screaming eagle cam and a Torrington bearing I believe
Daz
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,448
From: la la land jerzey
`you will be looking for metal damage on turning pieces - wear - and this part is not easy for a novis some precision measuring instruments is going to be needed and special tooling
reach out to all you know who rides and collect up anyone who has some of the tooling, so knowledge about the job at hand can be helpful to you and possible a friendly shop also helps
this is not a carb re jet this is a thing to do never have done before hope you are up for it
reach out to all you know who rides and collect up anyone who has some of the tooling, so knowledge about the job at hand can be helpful to you and possible a friendly shop also helps
this is not a carb re jet this is a thing to do never have done before hope you are up for it
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,024
Likes: 7,549
From: Poolville
Lots of good info here but I don't believe that aluminum did the damage here. I also don't think anything in the heads could have cause it... I had a crank pin shear and still drove the bike a little to get home. Upon a tear down of the motor I found that the because the crank pin sheared, the right half of the crank (cam side) rode against the inner motor case housing shaving the aluminum away. My point here is that upon completion of the tear down inspection, I did not have any damage to the oil pump that had picked up all the soft aluminum but did need to bore the breather gear and install an over sized breather. My oil filter was packed with Aluminum but the pump gear and housing had no damage at all. So I would definitely be looking for cam bearing or even lifter roller bearings.. Did you cut open the oil filter. One more thing, as stated earlier. You don't need to pull oil pump shaft unless it bent.... Please don't confuse this with what happened to your motor. My point is about the metal type and what it can and cannot do... Time for a full year down.. and yes you can split the cases yourself.... I'm sure there is still something down in the cases...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 31, 2018 at 06:48 AM.