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I don't have a voes at all and the port it vacuum capped and zip tied. I am going to check the cables for binding. Anything is possible at this point.
I did notice my old advance was worn and loose at the pins that hold the weights on. Couple that with my intake leak and I think that was the stalling problem. All and all I still want to upgrade the ignition to a Dyna 2ki. I have been shopping them and when the time comes I worked out a deal with one of the vendors over on HTT
Last edited by misfitJason; Aug 12, 2019 at 08:57 PM.
I think I may have figured something out. I have been doing some tests between today and yesterday with the advances I have.
SO the new advance I have gives me no stalling but the revs hang up.
My old advance does not hang up the revs but I do get the random stalling. I noticed when I swapped the advances this time (that I didn't see before) the advance weights on the old advance has freeplay (wear) on the mounting pins. I believe this is going to be the cause of my stalling.
Now what I still don't know is why my revs hang up with the newer advance. The springs are much lighter on the new advance compared to my old rivera advance..
Run engine and get her hot,
Remove air filter and while running, spray a fine mist of water.
One cup or two. Then go for a ride.
Have been doin it with cars and bikes since my late father in laws proved to me how well it opens up jets and now injectors.
Run engine and get her hot,
Remove air filter and while running, spray a fine mist of water.
One cup or two. Then go for a ride.
Have been doin it with cars and bikes since my late father in laws proved to me how well it opens up jets and now injectors.
Yes water works great for cleaning the carbon off the valves,The runners, ports etc. Thing is, it's a brand new motor AND there is no way to get water into the Jets...
Try replacing the advance weight springs with a set of less tension, then adjust your timing back a few degrees. This will allow the engine to start easier then give you full advance at a lower RPM. It will move the advance curve back to a lower RPM.
Also get in touch with S&S and make sure you are using the correct timing marks for the correct cylinder. It is my understanding that these can differ from engine to engine, there will likely be someone here that actually knows the answer to this.
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