Help with a stalling problem
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,123
Likes: 7,643
From: Poolville
Try replacing the advance weight springs with a set of less tension, then adjust your timing back a few degrees. This will allow the engine to start easier then give you full advance at a lower RPM. It will move the advance curve back to a lower RPM.
Also get in touch with S&S and make sure you are using the correct timing marks for the correct cylinder. It is my understanding that these can differ from engine to engine, there will likely be someone here that actually knows the answer to this.
Also get in touch with S&S and make sure you are using the correct timing marks for the correct cylinder. It is my understanding that these can differ from engine to engine, there will likely be someone here that actually knows the answer to this.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,849
Likes: 1,389
From: Florida
New advance at the house. Going to install tonight. A really nice one if any of you guys need a replacement in the future. American prime manufacturing.
If this doesn't fix it I'll be switching to a full electronic ignition. Either Dyna 2000i or a Daytona Twin Tec. Funnily enough I was watching videos on the two ignitions and came across this video.
It explains the difference between dual fire and single fire. I am running a dual fire now. The video talks about dual fire sometimes giving a carb cough igniting the fill in the cylinder. This sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. Never thought about it.
If this doesn't fix it I'll be switching to a full electronic ignition. Either Dyna 2000i or a Daytona Twin Tec. Funnily enough I was watching videos on the two ignitions and came across this video.
It explains the difference between dual fire and single fire. I am running a dual fire now. The video talks about dual fire sometimes giving a carb cough igniting the fill in the cylinder. This sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. Never thought about it.
Last edited by misfitJason; Aug 26, 2019 at 07:20 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,849
Likes: 1,389
From: Florida
I sent it back. If I am going to change a whole ignition I am just going to buy a full kit and start fresh rather than buying a coil and then possibly changing ignitions anyway.
Should be back to you today or tomorrow hot rod. Thanks again for the loaner parts!
Should be back to you today or tomorrow hot rod. Thanks again for the loaner parts!
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,849
Likes: 1,389
From: Florida
Replaced the advance with the new one. SHe runs really good now but still does the intermittent stall. Spent some time on the phone with Daytona Twin tec and all things point to the dual fire ignition being the issue. Looks like I might finally have a resolution
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,436
Likes: 7,129
From: Beyond Fucital
I really want to know how this turns out.
I did a cam change over the winter on my 94 Softail.
Andrews 27, S&S Quickie Pushrods, lifters, and an S&S ignition
I was getting backfire on deceleration, replaced the manifold gaskets, no change.
I had to turn out the idle screw and turn up the idle to 1000-1100.
I did a cam change over the winter on my 94 Softail.
Andrews 27, S&S Quickie Pushrods, lifters, and an S&S ignition
I was getting backfire on deceleration, replaced the manifold gaskets, no change.
I had to turn out the idle screw and turn up the idle to 1000-1100.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,849
Likes: 1,389
From: Florida
The new advance didn't make it go away. Here is a video of it still doing it. I am going to order a new ignition after biketoberfest. Until then I have just been riding her
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,123
Likes: 7,643
From: Poolville
So at the 48 second Mark it just stalled? The way it stalled would not indicate a fuel issue nor a vacuum leak of some sort. If that was the case it would run rough then die... it's idling perfect before it quickly stalls which is telling me it's electrical.
Do you have a breaker for the ignition module and coil..? Are they on they on the same circuit? If so I would take a new breaker 15a, wire it directly to the battery and a new wire to the coil and also a wire to feed the ignition module to help eliminate a wiring issue. Another test tool you can make is sort like a test light. Take a12v bulb and Wire it directly to the positive side of the coil and the other wire to ground, it should light and stay lit. monitor it while the bike is running.. if the light goes out when it stalls.. your positive feed to the ignition system has an intermittent connection issue.. I would confirm though that both the ignition module and coil are wired from the same circuit...
Do you have a breaker for the ignition module and coil..? Are they on they on the same circuit? If so I would take a new breaker 15a, wire it directly to the battery and a new wire to the coil and also a wire to feed the ignition module to help eliminate a wiring issue. Another test tool you can make is sort like a test light. Take a12v bulb and Wire it directly to the positive side of the coil and the other wire to ground, it should light and stay lit. monitor it while the bike is running.. if the light goes out when it stalls.. your positive feed to the ignition system has an intermittent connection issue.. I would confirm though that both the ignition module and coil are wired from the same circuit...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 10, 2019 at 07:11 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 425
From: Illinois
Unless you put the water in the gas tank!