I posted in the electrical forums...
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: MASS_hole
I posted in the electrical forums...
Regarding an issue that began right the time the bars were swapped on the wife’s 08 xbones.
i might have mentioned this in passing on someone else’s thread. The general consensus the switch.
But the tech pulled the wires out instead of checking the switch which was brought up
I no longer have the patience wrenching as I used to
So had to take it to a someone else
Seems to blink. But will not run
Anyone else ever experience the same thing?
Thank you for your interest and consideration
i might have mentioned this in passing on someone else’s thread. The general consensus the switch.
But the tech pulled the wires out instead of checking the switch which was brought up
I no longer have the patience wrenching as I used to
So had to take it to a someone else
Seems to blink. But will not run
Anyone else ever experience the same thing?
Thank you for your interest and consideration
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 409
Likes: 103
From: Roanoke, VA
If the wires were pulled out of one bar and put into another almost anything could happen.....my first line of attack would be to check continuity from the switch end of each wire and the connector end wherever it is after it leaves the bar. Hopefully the technician you sent the bike to will be thorough. It should be a simple fix, but even simple fixes take methodical searching to ferret out. My 89 FLTCU is chock ablock full of corroded connectors....especially the one where CB and intercom wires go through.....once I remove those devices I will strip the unneeded wires take the remaining wires and make a weatherpack connector for them. I'd like to do weatherpack connectors everywhere but it's a pain in the **** to make them up.
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From: MASS_hole
Thanks for your input Johnny. I expect the lines leading from the bulb, to switch is probably culprit.
And as you say. Real test is checking continuity between connectors.
A methodical must if you want to eliminate guess work.
Can’t imagine it being too difficult considering the MoCo uses connectors at every corner.
Shop manual identifies it as connector# [31 L] 3-place multilock, located inside top frame tube.
On my Slim which is 6 years newer, they run along the side of tube and split at the steering neck
Last edited by splattttttt; Jun 29, 2019 at 06:43 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boston, MA
If the wires were pulled out of one bar and put into another almost anything could happen.....my first line of attack would be to check continuity from the switch end of each wire and the connector end wherever it is after it leaves the bar. Hopefully the technician you sent the bike to will be thorough. It should be a simple fix, but even simple fixes take methodical searching to ferret out. My 89 FLTCU is chock ablock full of corroded connectors....especially the one where CB and intercom wires go through.....once I remove those devices I will strip the unneeded wires take the remaining wires and make a weatherpack connector for them. I'd like to do weatherpack connectors everywhere but it's a pain in the **** to make them up.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,175
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From: South Carolina
The run lamp in the turn signal does not get power from anything in the handlebar control switches.
Power for the run lamps goes from the lights fuse directly to the connector for the front turn signals.
Check connector 31 A/B, one of the pins (blue wire) may be pushed out of the connector.
If the connector is ok, trace the blue wires back to where they come together into a single blue wire, the failure may be at that spot where they branch out from the single wire.
Since the left side works, the problem must be somewhere between the spot where the wire branches out and the signal itself.
Power for the run lamps goes from the lights fuse directly to the connector for the front turn signals.
Check connector 31 A/B, one of the pins (blue wire) may be pushed out of the connector.
If the connector is ok, trace the blue wires back to where they come together into a single blue wire, the failure may be at that spot where they branch out from the single wire.
Since the left side works, the problem must be somewhere between the spot where the wire branches out and the signal itself.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 2, 2019 at 05:11 PM.
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From: MASS_hole
That woulda have been an easy fault for tech to spot Dan. One I obviously missed.
Problem was fixed. Cost was a total of 4hrs labor to replace “a” wire that supposedly had rot that ran through the shrink tube and the wire it self.(;
Wife is happy.
Gonna help this 4th out in a big way.
Problem was fixed. Cost was a total of 4hrs labor to replace “a” wire that supposedly had rot that ran through the shrink tube and the wire it self.(;
Wife is happy.
Gonna help this 4th out in a big way.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,175
Likes: 12,745
From: South Carolina
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: MASS_hole
Thanks Dan.
I’ll second that and ask that all keep an extra eye out for cagers over the weekend.
It’s always when they turn left. And lane switch!
Peace!!
I’ll second that and ask that all keep an extra eye out for cagers over the weekend.
It’s always when they turn left. And lane switch!
Peace!!
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