130k mi bro
That’s gotta give

 

Original post stated it only whined when the clutch was out moving in gear (?) and the whine followed RPMs...

There's only 2 bearings in the primary area that turn when clutch is engaged - crank main and inner primary. If the inner primary bearing is getting worn bad, they generally start seeping out the seal but you can't see it for the pulley until it gets totally bad and dripping down the backside.
There's no way to load and spin test any of those bearings by hand. You can push and yank the main bearings to check for end play since they're tapered rollers but checking play of the trans input shaft thru the inner primary bearing with up/down, front/back play is a 50/50 guess at best. But if you try it, there should be no visible shaft play/movement in that bearing.

If you pull the inner primary (you're 3/4 the way there already) you'll have to replace the race on the trans main shaft. Chances of ever getting a seal to work on the old one with that many miles is near zero, no matter how well you dress it. The tool for that is about 135.00 last I looked. You can do it the shade tree way but you'll be working at it for a while..... I've changed many and trust me - it ain't worth it without that tool.

Primary chains are tough and doubtful you'd ever break that one but with 130k miles it's stretched a lot, so put one on your parts list, regardless. The spring pack doesn't look bad judging from the photo of the compensator cams but whatever makes you feel good. Generally they knock on decel if they're weak/bad. The clutch hub bearing will have some play and still be good. That is, with the plates out you can "wiggle" the basket on the hub some. I've replaced several for people, but none were actually "bad." That bearing only turns when the clutch is released and they are very hearty. From your symptoms mentioned, it's not the culprit.

Can't help but wonder whether you loosened the chain and tried it (listened) again before you tore it down. And I know how you feel, I hate replacing parts that aren't bad - chasing a noise....

 

Thank you

Well, I have all winter to figure it out.

I spent last winter changing out the top end with new 85ci Axtel Big Bore pistons and cylendars, Mikuni Carb, Hillside Cycle Headwork, new lifters and chrome lifter blocks, Andrews adjustable pushrods, Dynatek Ignition and coil. It already had and an Andrews EV27 cam. Did all myself for first time. I spent the spring chasing after a charging issue which is why i replaced stator and messed up Primary chain adjustment.

I babied the bike for the first 129 thousand mies or so lol - til I got the break-in miles on the new top end and then I went a little nuts. Lord Jesus what a difference it made in power off the line!!

As I posted, I did a 400+ mile day right after new stator install with the apparently too tight chain blasting around the New Hampshire White Mountains. I did fly up a very steep mountain road -more like a hill climb in high rpm in maybe third gear. I had no noises after that til pulling in driveway in maine when I heard the whir, whir, whir sound like when you push a bike on a trailer. That's when I loosed the chain and still have the whine.

I will pull the inner primary to see main shaft bearing.. after last winter i was looking for a break on it lol.

Thank everyone for help.

 

T150vej, great info!

JDixon, depending on how far into you get, this is a great deal on the inner primary bearing race puller/installer (I have no affiliation) :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Big-...oAAOSw61haYNIM

I pulled my inner primary bearing and race last winter, installed the baker hi-torque bearing. It eliminates the need to install a new race. I liked that feature and the newer replacement MoCo race and inner primary bearing are now made in mexico and it seems quality is not what it used to be when compared to the original made in USA or Canada parts.

The other option is the All ***** bearing. It still eliminates the race, but is a double row ball bearing where the baker is a single row ball bearing. Of course the original is a roller bearing.

Not trying to down play anything, but the inner primary stuff is pretty straight forward. Time consuming yes, but not overly technical, based on your previous engine work experience, this project should no problem for you. YD

 

Thanks!!

 

Thanks for posting the link. Been wanting a good one

 

Well, I've got maybe a good news update.

The bike is on thye lift but I've been tinkering on all this while out of work from knee surgery. Today I finally felt good enough to knee down and crawl around lt.

I pulled saddlebags and finally got to check tranny pully area looking for fluid if mainshaft seal is leaking etc.

I noticed belt drive is right against tranny on far right side of sprocket and has been rubbing. I spun the wheel and there is a rubbing noise that could easily turn into a whine at speed. The belt was so loose I could push it up and touch the debri guard.

I have a guage to check alignment of axle and the primary side of axle had moved forward!! I loosened axle and moved to match right side and now no rubbing, plus belt is not up against tranny now.

I haven't set the tension on the belt to factory manual setting yet (will wait til off lift, level with a person sitting on it), but i believe the tension is back to where it was which was good enough. Maybe when I really "got on the throttle" the belt was slipping a tooth and I would feel it and let up enough to let it drop/align.
Anyways, I'll probably order a new chain, maybe a compensator spring pack, put it together and give it a shot.

Possibly the hard riding pulled that side of axle?

Unfortunately, by the time I can test ride it again when why knee is ok, I'll be back to wotk and it'll be winter. Guess I got a lot to look forward this spring.

How does that sound??

 

Sounds like you got it.. are your axle adjusting bolt loosening up on you.? Usually they have a locking jam nut

 

Not sure but I'll check it out thanks