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My 30 amp main breaker is still located in the original position, the original worked from the time the bike was new until I replaced it while doing an electrical clean up on the bike last winter (winter in South Carolina ).
The starter relay was relocated during a recall, which added a short wiring harness so that the relay could be moved up near the battery, underneath the seat. They also installed a cover over the relay.
This setup obviously worked, the relay was still working when I changed it out after more than 30 years.
I got all the wiring roughed in last weekend. I dropped the battery in and was happy nothing appeared to be melting. Turned the ignition on and had neutral and oil dash lights for about 3 seconds then nothing. No dash light, headlight, ignition. My heart sank. I had failed. I pouted for a little while then realized everything I had been doing gave me the knowledge to trace power and figure out why it wasn't working. I had my breakers plugged in wrong and one wire on the starter relay relocation harness wrong. Everything works! I still need to mount the relay in the new location and tidy everything up but I'm very happy about being where I'm at.
I wasn't too sure about my choice for dash breakers. A little different from the factory set up. It's more hard wire vs removing wires from the breaker post. I added a plug connection so I can remove the speedo without cutting wires. 4 breaker block so I'm carrying a spare. I guess time will tell.
Relay is relocated and wiring is all buttoned up. Now I wait for paint.
At one point I had the front end strapped down on the lift. It leaked some fork oil. It's never done this before and hasn't since I removed the straps. Any opinions on if I should get it together ride it and reevaluate or go ahead and replace seals? Any reason to replace springs? I'm sure they're original. I don't recall the front end diving under breaking but I haven't rode it enough to know for sure. I'm pretty sure painter #1 is not going to work out. I have another option lined up but I think it will still be a while before I get the sheet metal back.
If the fork springs are original, they have been shot since about 1988...
Since the bike is going to be down for a while for paint, you might consider pulling the front end and repacking the steering head bearings (or replace if needed).
Also, the lifters that came originally in the Evos up to somewhere around 1997 had a problem with needle bearing failures in the roller. Consider replacing the lifters with a name brand part, such as S&S, Johnson Hy Lift, or OEM.
Another problem area in the 5 speed bikes built before mid 1994 was the transmission sprocket, the retaining nut had a habit of working loose, causing the sprocket to slip on the splines of the main drive gear.
If you replace the front sprocket, make sure you use hardware for a 1995 or later bike.
If the fork springs are original, they have been shot since about 1988...
Since the bike is going to be down for a while for paint, you might consider pulling the front end and repacking the steering head bearings (or replace if needed).
Also, the lifters that came originally in the Evos up to somewhere around 1997 had a problem with needle bearing failures in the roller. Consider replacing the lifters with a name brand part, such as S&S, Johnson Hy Lift, or OEM.
Another problem area in the 5 speed bikes built before mid 1994 was the transmission sprocket, the retaining nut had a habit of working loose, causing the sprocket to slip on the splines of the main drive gear.
If you replace the front sprocket, make sure you use hardware for a 1995 or later bike.
Good advice. Had a 88 that saw all the above except the lifters. I changed them with a cam and cam bearing when i bought it.
If the fork springs are original, they have been shot since about 1988...
Since the bike is going to be down for a while for paint, you might consider pulling the front end and repacking the steering head bearings (or replace if needed).
Also, the lifters that came originally in the Evos up to somewhere around 1997 had a problem with needle bearing failures in the roller. Consider replacing the lifters with a name brand part, such as S&S, Johnson Hy Lift, or OEM.
Another problem area in the 5 speed bikes built before mid 1994 was the transmission sprocket, the retaining nut had a habit of working loose, causing the sprocket to slip on the splines of the main drive gear.
If you replace the front sprocket, make sure you use hardware for a 1995 or later bike.
Thanks Dan. I'm planning on doing the front end stuff. Unfortunately I know even less about engine and transmission internals than I do wiring.. So forgive me if these are basic questions.
I started looking into lifters over the weekend. The engine is stroked. I don't know when this occurred. I believe it had some work/repairs since initial stroking. Are lifters different for a stroker? Are they cam specific? Is it possible they have already been replaced? I watched some videos and read a little bit on the replacement process. It looks like quite a task and if I have to get them out to verify I assume I should just replace them.
Haven't looked into the sprocket yet but in my head this one sounds a little more straight forward.
Pulled the forks yesterday. Found a wire grounding two bolts and the clean looking spot on the left fork tube was wrapped in duct tape. The wires come as no surprise but for the life of me I can't figure out why the fork tube was taped. Tires are 12 years old..
Polishing the sliders is taking much longer than the internet led me to believe it would. I'm pretty happy with the results but not sure I would do it again.
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