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The rear brake light switch should work without engine running, however it is pressure activated. Need the rear brake system full of fluid to operate the hydraulic pressure activated brake light switch.
For testing and assuming your battery is connected in the normal manner: with the wiring still connected to the rear brake switch spade connectors, use a jumper (or something to briefly touch the two terminals at the switch together) and the brake light should go on, if it does, your wiring is OK. You could also disconnect the two connectors on the wiring sides and jumper them with the same expected results.
Consider using DOT 5 fluid in your non-ABS system.
The rear brake light switch should work without engine running, however it is pressure activated. Need the rear brake system full of fluid to operate the hydraulic pressure activated brake light switch.
For testing and assuming your battery is connected in the normal manner: with the wiring still connected to the rear brake switch spade connectors, use a jumper (or something to briefly touch the two terminals at the switch together) and the brake light should go on, if it does, your wiring is OK. You could also disconnect the two connectors on the wiring sides and jumper them with the same expected results.
Consider using DOT 5 fluid in your non-ABS system.
Its still just a driveway pic but I had a secesful test ride today! I have a handful of little things to sort out but I'm a happy camper right now. Thanks again for all the help getting me to this point!
Saturday was almost a very bad day. I had it on the lift with the front tire locked in. Got the rear end back together and needed to turn it around to remove the front wheel again. I had no front brake but the rear was working. I asked my son come out to release the front then help me push it around. No idea what I was thinking but instead of sitting on the bike and operating the rear brake I stood on the side and proceeded to roll it off without him behind me to control the speed. I lost control and dumped it into the shelving in the top picture. The handle bars caught the shelving which prevented damage to the fresh paint. It pushed the shelves over about a foot and knocked some stuff off which may or may not have hit my Jeep on the other side. Haven't chcecked the Jeep yet.
Things to look into.
1. No ignition when I turn the switch to lights. I never tried to start or run it with the lights on until the test run. I removed one of the jumper wires on the switch so the lights would remain off in the ignition position but I guess that killed power beyond that.
2. No speedo. When I took the bike apart the cable was disconnected from the speedo. Connected and turned the cable and it appeared to be working. I replaced the drive unit at the wheel because the tab wasn't catching. I'm not sure what the issue is.
3. I think I might need to replace the front fork studs or nuts. I sungged them up with a ratchet but when I went to torque them they wouldn't hit the #. Felt like it was spinning and I was hesitant to strip it.
This was aslo my first ride with a helmet. I did not like it. I went with a full face Shoei. It will take some getting used to...
Fixed:
- Ignition with lights. Connected the jumper wire I had disconnected. Simple but I would still like the option to run ignition w/o lights.
- Did not keep an eye on the drive unit when I installed the wheel. Tab was not in the slot on the rotor. Had to remove front wheel, straighten tab, and reinstall. Working properly. Trip meter is wonky. All numbers bounce all over the place while riding. I have not reset dial. Ordered a new spedo.
- Received front fork studs today. Will replace.
New issue:
- Lost dash lights (neutral and oil) at the gas station. Got back to my office and discoverd I also lost brake and tail light. Headlight and driving lights still operate. Light relay/braker was tripped. Reset no change. Pulled dash cover and I've got a broken wire. At first I assumed vibration broke a cheap connector but it looks like the post/connection got hot. Dash lights work with ignition in the accessory position. Lights also work when I touch the broken connector to it's location. I'm going to replace the wire connector and see what happens. Anything else I should be looking for?
Shortly after getting her running again my new rear fender started tearing in the same location as the old one. I was getting a wicked vibration at higher rpms. I replaced the primary chain and compensator sprocket based on advice and help on this site and she smoothed right out. Body shop added some support/strength to the rear fender and repainted. She was down for a little over a month waiting on the Diamond Chain to arrive but we're back on the road and it appears I've ironed out all my issues for now. I've put on about 300 miles in town building confidence in riding again and getting comfortable with the work I've done. I'm hoping to start venturing a little farther from home as the summer progresses.
l developed an oil leak this summer. Im going to do some more extensive reading in the manual this weekend but from a quick look at the parts breakdown I think I'm going to be replacing the cylinder head base gasket and O rings on the studs. Any opinions or input would be appreciated.
Other items on the list for this winter are replacing the oil lines and a helicoil or time sert on the primary cover. Winter is officially here.
Before you pull all that apart clean the entire head with brake clean or something to get rid of all the oil.. Even the underside of the right side of the head where the pushrod tubes seat in the cylinder head... The O-rings there will leak and oil will travel around the head making it look as if the head gaskets are leaking.. is the motor all stock including OEM head gaskets?
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 17, 2022 at 05:47 PM.
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