97 flhtcui

Does anyone know if the timing marks on the cam,pinion, and breather meet on every rotation of crank, or just sometimes?
Thanks

 

Every other turn of the engine. The cam turns half the speed of the crankshaft.

 

That of course makes sense, thanks.

 

Is it possible to install the cam in the wrong position if it is lined up with the pinion mark, could you be out, like on the wrong stroke?

Would the engine still turn over?

I ask because installed new cam bearings and reinstalled cam, now it turns over fine but won't start, I re timed the ignition, still didn't start, so am wondering if it's possible for me to have installed cam wrong even with marks lined up, like maybe I wasn't at TDC.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

The stroke isn't set until the cam is installed, so as long as the marks line up, all will be well.

 

Ok thanks, now i don't have to pull the cone, and can look elsewhere.

 

Lets back it up, and on the crank gear, you looking for a Groove slot below the teeth to start with. If you have the jugs off, the rods will be closer to the down position when that mark is upwards.

Some times the nut will partially hide the grove on the crank gear, but if you look close, will see it on the gear just above the nut's edge.




Now with the grove on the crank gear in the up position, your going to install the cam so it's bottom line/dot is aligned to the Crank Gear slot, and the second dot or line (depending on the crank) to the left, will align with the line on the breather. Also to point out, on the older evo motors, verse the newer motors, will have different type back shim plates. The later motors just have a round thrush washer, while the early motors had ears on the thrush plate and it has to be installed correctly, with the larger round part downward (look at the back back side/verses the cam bearing channel, and you can figure out how it has to be installed against the case.




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As for ignition timing (once you do have the cam cover back on), that timing mark is on the other side of the crank itself, and there is a plug that you will need to remove from the case just below the jugs to get the dot/line centered on the plug opening, and then your going to adjust the timing sensor to that mark. On factory ignitions, you have to use a timing light to as the motor is spinning on the front cylinder (the plastic plug covers are hit and miss if you can pick up the mark with timing light), while on some after market modules they have a light, you can adjust the sensor with the motor not spinning instead.

Now to point out, on the MM injected bikes, the sensor plate will be installed via the round holes on the plate in a fixed postion, while on Carb bike, you use the plate slots to so you can adjust the ignition timing. Also to point out, the timing cup that the MM ignition bikes uses, is different from the timing cup that the carb bikes use.

http://www.nightrider.com/bt30/ignition_timing_00.htm

So if you do have a carbed bike, before you remove the ignition sensor on the cam cover, mark the V slot of the sensor plate to the cam cover with a scribe, and when you go to either reinstall it, or replace it, will have you close enough to call it good for the most part.

And to add, if you are using the stock push rods, The back cylinder exhaust rod will be Brown with the strips upwards, the back intake rod will be blue with strips upwards, the front jug intake will be Yellow, and the front jug exhaust rod will be green with strips up as well. On push rod tube, back outside will be exhaust on that block, front inner will be intake on left hand block , front right exhaust and left inner intake.



As for ignition, should be dual fire set up, so hard to get that wrong. If you are using a single fire set up, then make sure you have the spark plugs wire in the correct side of the coil.

 

Thanks, i believe i've got all that right. Will see how it goes in a little while.