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Quick question for you all out there. I have seen oil temp guages for 99 and up FLHT but can't find one for my ride, 97 ultra. Anyone have any idea what to use? Want to keep an eye on the oil temp. Thanks!
After much trial and error, I think I am getting close to lessening the vibration problems to a point that I am satisfied. So far it does appear the front mount is the most likely suspect. I am using the Velva-Ride two piece mount and looking back I think what happened is that after the first few hundred miles the softer rubber compressed a little, allowing a little more movement, even though the mount was still tight. It also lowered the engine a tiny bit. At first I added a thin rubber washer between the 2 halves and this raised the engine and made it more stiff. The extreme vibration stopped but overall it vibrated far more than I like, so I then tried just putting a washer between the top of the mount and the bracket that sits on mount to raise the engine but keep the Velva-Ride mount softer. It worked great for a little while but then the extreme vibration came back, so I added a thinner rubber between the mount halves and a thinner washer on top. It seems pretty good now, but won't know until I can ride it two up for a while. I ended up raising the rear of the tank about 3/8 " for better clearance, I have about 1/4 inch top and bottom - should give the engine plenty of room to move around.
I lost track of the exact mileage, but know it's about 500 miles so the other day after I changed oil again , ran it all the way up to red line in 1st and 2nd gear to see what it feels like. I really liked it, I could really feel the difference!
I still have some issues to deal with, the choke hasn't been working right the last couple times, seems to stick and then pops back in and I have to pull on it while the engine is running to get it to idle fast and I may have a new air leak as the last couple times out I had it out I had popping on decelaration . My air/fuel gauge shows that when I leave off it goes lean, other times it is either a bit rich or right in the power area during steady throttle.
on edit: I do admit it would have been nicer to have a professional take care of all of this, but then I would not have as much to complain about.
My wife and I joke that if I ever get this thing working right it will probably be a few seconds before I crash it - she says I can hear it now " Hey, look, everything is finally working right - splat" Over 40,000 miles and it hasn't worked right yet, but we still enjoy riding it.
Check out the pics. Engine and tranny swap are done. Will the stock starter work or will I be screwed? If it won't work, what will. I found a 1.8 kw for the FLHT but the 2.0 and 2.4 by Ultima say that they don't work with touring. Is that right?
Inner primary is on now as well as back end (complete with new tire for me to tear up). Does anyone have an answer about the starter situation? They say to use bigger battery and wires as well. What do you say about that? Thanks all!
P.S. The tank was a pain in the a$$. The 97 has all metal plumbing inside so you have to find someone with tiny hands to get inside with a small pipe cutter. Then you have to drill out the tube from the outside (went 1/64" at time as not to ruin anything) to make room for the adapter kit and petcock. Works and looks great, just a lot of work.
I am using a spyke 1.4 kw starter which went right on my 90 dresser. Same battery that i had with the semi-stock setup. I don't know about the 127" but mine will start without the compression releases. but it sure helps to spin the 107 using them.
Will, let me know what you did to change the efi to carb. i am considering putting the 107 on the 1995 efi dresser that i just acquired.
Paco,
The switch over isn't all that bad with the kit that Pingel sells for it. The hardest part is gutting the inside of the tank out. Like I said, you have to get everything out (fuel pump comes out easy), but the lines are copper lines and you have to cut them out with a small pipe cutter. That isn't the bitch of it. The bitch is getting your forearm in the tank far enough to get the pipe cut out. Then you have to drill it out from the bottom, being careful not to hit the threads with the bit. That is why you take it slow, 1/64" at a time on the drilling. Once the petcock fits through, you are home free. Remove the ECM and all the other garbage wiring. Your bike will save a few pounds with all the wiring you remove. Not to bad of a process really, just a little pricey on the parts. Petcock was about 100 and the kit for the threading issues from Pingel is 45. It looks really sweet though. Bike should be fired up by the end of the week or early next. I ordered a 2.0 Ultima starter. I already have an Odyssey battery. May change the wires though as well. Things left to do are starter, clutch, put outer primary on, carb (and cruise control adapter), fluids, and exhaust. Then time to fire this thing up. Taking a little while, but getting stuff done right the first time (lets hope) It looks unbelievable and I am sure it will ride even better. I have the Evo on eBay right now. Putting the EFI on there tonight. I say go for it Paco. It is not that difficult, especially if you can find someone with small hands/forearms.
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