EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Ultima 107" motor on a 90 model Bagger

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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #511  
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miacycles
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Originally Posted by paco
hey all,

the 1995 stock battery and starter would not turn the 107" fast enough to fire her off. So, i bought a new battery, still no go. so, i have modified the 90 ultra spyke starter to work with the 95 ultra setup. if this does start the 107" i guess i have something in the primary too tight or something is dragging, maybe the stator rotor or something. Any ideas on what to check ?

pics have been added to the rebuild album if anyone is interested.
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o...tra%20project/

later ................
Does it turn over faster with the plugs out. If so you probably need better cables and starter. Also check the timing, if it is too far advanced it wont turn over. If the lifters are collapsing and not opening the valves soon/far enough it will be tough to turn over too.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TheGoat
Tipn8r - How is that motor been since the build? Running strong?
Yea, every time I ride, it seems to run better. It pulls low pretty good, but really comes on strong after getting up in the rpm's.

I may go next year to a six speed and swap out to a right side drive too. Have been checking out custom swingarm to fit a 280 or 300 and make this thing a bit more radical.

But that will all depend on if I score a Street Glide for riding 2 up with the old lady. As long as I get one of those, then she'll leave me alone for a while.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 05:37 AM
  #513  
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IronButt62
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From the Goat:
"I am getting 38 around town and 44 on the road. That is riding 2 up."

I have about 500 miles on the 113 in my 87 heritage and can't get 100 miles of mixed riding before I hit reserve (3.9 gallons). I'm not beating on it during break in, but do get up around 75 on the highway commute.

Engine runs great starts fine and actually seemed to run a little lean "out of the box" I adjusted the idle mixture screw about 3/4 turn from stop and the cough went away.

I am running an 80 db Santee muffler which has the large stepped header but is pretty quiet. I am willing to sacrifice a little bit of performance to keep the muffler, but not an extra hour of saddle time per tank.

I am unfamiliar with Mikuni tuning, but got pretty good on my old S&S.

Would appreciate any thoughts. Would the restrictive muffler cause such poor mpg? Is 3/4 turn on the idle mixture normal?

Thanks in advance.

Deet
 
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:31 AM
  #514  
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miacycles
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Originally Posted by IronButt62
From the Goat:
"I am getting 38 around town and 44 on the road. That is riding 2 up."

I have about 500 miles on the 113 in my 87 heritage and can't get 100 miles of mixed riding before I hit reserve (3.9 gallons). I'm not beating on it during break in, but do get up around 75 on the highway commute.

Engine runs great starts fine and actually seemed to run a little lean "out of the box" I adjusted the idle mixture screw about 3/4 turn from stop and the cough went away.

I am running an 80 db Santee muffler which has the large stepped header but is pretty quiet. I am willing to sacrifice a little bit of performance to keep the muffler, but not an extra hour of saddle time per tank.

I am unfamiliar with Mikuni tuning, but got pretty good on my old S&S.

Would appreciate any thoughts. Would the restrictive muffler cause such poor mpg? Is 3/4 turn on the idle mixture normal?

Thanks in advance.

Deet
Couple of things, first what size engine do you have, and what size jets are in the carb? Second did you check the float level. Yes mufflers can affect mileage, muffler manufacturers are starting to catch up with the large motors out there. A year and a half ago you had a hard time finding a good exhaust for a 120+" motor. Check your accelerator pump, you should have at least .080" clearance between the rod and the arm that accuates it to start. The more clearance you can get before it starts to cough the better the mileage will be with all else being equal. You can also try changing the accalerator pump nozzle to a smaller one and see if mileage improves with no loss of performance
 
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 07:03 AM
  #515  
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Thanks John,

The 107" Ultima stator area is different than the stock 1995 Ultraclassic. anyway, to make a long story short, I f*&^ed up and tightened the rotor down on the stator. well you all know what happened. it was dragging on the stator and rubbed the wireing of the stator and shorted it out. Moral of the story---check the clearance on the rotor to stator. just another setback and MORE money!!

later..............
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 06:48 AM
  #516  
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Originally Posted by paco
Thanks John,

The 107" Ultima stator area is different than the stock 1995 Ultraclassic. anyway, to make a long story short, I f*&^ed up and tightened the rotor down on the stator. well you all know what happened. it was dragging on the stator and rubbed the wireing of the stator and shorted it out. Moral of the story---check the clearance on the rotor to stator. just another setback and MORE money!!

later..............
I've found on 1995 to 1998 Baggers you have to change the engine oil seal & use the spacer from the original engine. Aftermarket engines are usually set up for 32 amp charging systems & not the 38, 40 & 44 amp systems on the 95 - 98 touring bikes.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:47 AM
  #517  
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miacycles
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Originally Posted by paco
Thanks John,

The 107" Ultima stator area is different than the stock 1995 Ultraclassic. anyway, to make a long story short, I f*&^ed up and tightened the rotor down on the stator. well you all know what happened. it was dragging on the stator and rubbed the wireing of the stator and shorted it out. Moral of the story---check the clearance on the rotor to stator. just another setback and MORE money!!

later..............

Yep, that will make it hard to start. When we did the 120" in our '95 FLHT, we used the 38 amp setup and it bolted right in. Oh and on the '95 EFI bikes the coil wire was either yellow/blue or blue/orange, the third wire yellow/green went to the injectors. Check the first two and find out whichone(or both) is switched via the handlebar switch as you need this feature for safety. Oh and if you haven't figured it out, it looks like without changing a lot of stuff you need to keep the ECM for the cruise to work.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #518  
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Thanks Baggerparts and Miacycles for your suggestions.

I ordered another 38 amp stator yesterday. I hope i can make it work. as per John it should. I had no problem with the clearance in the 90 model with the 32 amp stator.

John,
thanks for the tip about the cruise. But, i have already stripped the ECM and the wire-harness from the bike. I had planned to put the cruise on my 99 roadglide if it were compatible. all it needs according to HD dealer is the cruise mod and the cable and a Mikuni adapter for the 45mm. However, thats another day.

later...........
 
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #519  
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You have a lot of bikes and time Paco, I envy you. Update on mine, still waiting! I was sent wrong part and I am waiting on on spacer. This is painful, but not too bad as WI is barely hitting 40 these days...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Any new news Paco?
 
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