EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Correct Combustion? Your Thoughts

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Old Apr 8, 2026 | 05:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
Note; ethanol is Much Higher Octane Rating than Gasoline...so... Stands to Reason, more Alkyhol in yer gas = Higher Octane..Exactly the opposite of More Power, or Hotter!!
All Octane does, is resist burn...ie, Resist Pre-ignition...Spark Knock!!!
Right, The higher octane can handle higher combustion pressure and temps before preignition occurs.. unlike 87 fuel but you really need at least 98 octane to really make any difference.. 106 and 110 is better but you really need the higher compression for a better burn..
 
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 07:07 AM
  #22  
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^^ Or... More Advance... I do Not set by the Book!!!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Racepres
^^ Or... More Advance... I do Not set by the Book!!!
Neither do I anymore on the Evo.. The plugs and the motor tells me what it wants...
 
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 10:42 AM
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I like mph to set. I’m at 28 degrees on the 127 currently. Been hillbillying it without real traps. But pretty sure it’s on the money.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Rains2much
I like mph to set. I’m at 28 degrees on the 127 currently. Been hillbillying it without real traps. But pretty sure it’s on the money.
Would be interesting to see the entire ignition curve throughout the rpm range..
 
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Would be interesting to see the entire ignition curve throughout the rpm range..
Need a data cable for that… everytime I go to order one they say it’s out of stock or back ordered.

But I would concentrate on 4000-6500. Sure I like it to have street manners.. and it does, but I’d compromise for the 4 to 6.5
 

Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 9, 2026 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 11:28 AM
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Apologies to @BigMike didn't mean to go of the road..
 
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Old Apr 11, 2026 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Apologies to @BigMike didn't mean to go of the road..
No worries, good reading.

I'm going to advance the timing by 2 marks because it took a lot of retarding to get the dot in the hole when I timed it. I had to guess at the rpms when setting it. I'm also going to test the VOES as well as replace its vacuum line. Then run the new plugs when it's hot and read them. I have my weekly ride on Wednesday so I'm trying to get everything done by then so I can put 150 miles on it with the new plugs. I really appreciate everyone's help on this!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2026 | 04:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BigMike
No worries, good reading.

I'm going to advance the timing by 2 marks because it took a lot of retarding to get the dot in the hole when I timed it. I had to guess at the rpms when setting it. I'm also going to test the VOES as well as replace its vacuum line. Then run the new plugs when it's hot and read them. I have my weekly ride on Wednesday so I'm trying to get everything done by then so I can put 150 miles on it with the new plugs. I really appreciate everyone's help on this!
When you test the VOES, don't just check for "on" or "off" when applying vacuum. Use an ohmmeter to check resistance. My old VOES switch worked "sometimes" and it really lead me down some troubleshooting loops and dead ends. Until I checked the resistance. Ran about 100 to 120 ohms...not good. Replacement checked at 0 ohms.

The VOES is still just a simple on and off switch (it's just turned on and off by vacuum) and should not be running any real ohms when "on" or in technical terms: when in the closed position. (a switch in the closed position is "on", an open switch is "off"). I don't recall how many volts goes through to trigger/operate the voes switch, but it's milliamps for the signal. So resistance at the switch contacts is a bad thing.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 03:11 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
When you test the VOES, don't just check for "on" or "off" when applying vacuum. Use an ohmmeter to check resistance. My old VOES switch worked "sometimes" and it really lead me down some troubleshooting loops and dead ends. Until I checked the resistance. Ran about 100 to 120 ohms...not good. Replacement checked at 0 ohms.

The VOES is still just a simple on and off switch (it's just turned on and off by vacuum) and should not be running any real ohms when "on" or in technical terms: when in the closed position. (a switch in the closed position is "on", an open switch is "off"). I don't recall how many volts goes through to trigger/operate the voes switch, but it's milliamps for the signal. So resistance at the switch contacts is a bad thing.
@Yankee Dog you obviously had corrosion in the switch causing intermittent failure.. Also the switch only provides a ground for the full advance circuit in the ignition module.. There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire..
 
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