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I've also been thinking about installing an Arlen Ness air cleaner. They say they are for 93 and up due to the head breathers, but I can block those holes on the backplate and use the use the stock screws to hold the backplate to the heads. The factory air box has about the entire back cut but is drawing air directly from the cylinder fins. I feel like it would breathe better with a stage 1 type air cleaner using the stock cover. Thoughts?
Buy a taller air filter for inside your stock cover, buy a longer center bolt…. Done.
The air right around your cooling fins might be hotter at idle but at 55 mph I don’t think that matters at all.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 18, 2026 at 12:31 PM.
Sorry this wasnt directed at me and there are a lot of chefs in the kitchen
But just remove the bolt that holds the baffle go to the hardware store and buy two bolts that is long enough to almost touch the other side when tightened. Put in a 45 jet, tune your mix screws and I bet your problem is 90% fixed
if so, buy the largest size Thunder Torque insert from DK Customs and then your problem will be 99% fixed.
Thumb screws work well. These have been in these 36 long drag pipes for over 25 years. G carb 32/82, bored out with shaved throttle shaft in my 70 93 Shovel motor. Runs super smooth around town and turns up the nasty in a blink of an eye spreading hate and discontent among the r6 and vt1800 crowds.
I'm not sure this would make a difference as there is a plate in the stock baffles that basically does the same thing. Look deep into the pipe - it isn't straight thru.
Your timing is off. The discoloration at the electro straps should be right near the bend. Rear is ok, Front looks just a tad rich too.
Tuned is tuned.. open pipes tuned correctly will look just as pretty as any other pipe period.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 30, 2026 at 02:41 PM.
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