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@Yankee Dog you obviously had corrosion in the switch causing intermittent failure.. Also the switch only provides a ground for the full advance circuit in the ignition module.. There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire..
Yes and yes. And I found no way to get into that switch to spray with de-oxit. Replacement is the fix. So the better term is "continuity to ground". Sorry it's been a long time. Just wanted to point out the resistance issue I experienced with my OEM switch. Replaced with the Standard Motor Products MC-VOS3, however, also ended up pulling out the silicone and adjusting mine to better fit my riding/bike.
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Apr 12, 2026 at 05:16 AM.
Looks like there's shadowing on the rear plug, so hard to tell.. Front looks good.. Definitely need more timing.. on your cam position sensor you will see timing lines, rotate the CPS 2 lines clockwise and install new plugs like Rufus mentioned.. NGK BPR5ES-11
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Whats the recommended gap on those plugs? Ive read anywhere from .035 - .038. Ive got an EV27 cam, Wiseco 10-1, Dyna ignition, heads done by Bean, 170 psi CCP.
What’s the recommended gap on those plugs? I’ve read anywhere from .035 - .038. I’ve got an EV27 cam, Wiseco 10-1, Dyna ignition, heads done by Bean, 170 psi CCP.
Advanced timing 1.5 marks on the sensor plate. Rode the bike about 10 miles / 20 minutes and changed to the new plugs gapped at .035. I rode 105 miles with very little stopping and idling but there was some of that.
The bike ran great like it always has. I still had the cough through the carb if I was idling and cracked the throttle but only the first time. No pinging that I could hear. A new issue is the bike would backfire when starting it after a short shutdown period which tells me too much timing.
I can see that this coloration on the right hand plug right in the middle of the bend which is right where you want to be for some reason it appears that the left one which I'm assuming is the rear cylinder is a little bit forward of that but that's okay.. and it appears you just running a tad rich on the front which is kind of normal on these evos when you get them running anything nice the front for some reason runs Richard in the rear and I think it has to do with heat. But if you want to turn your idle mixture screw in a half turn and see how the plugs clean up, I would go from there.. What is the current setting on the idle mixture screw?
I can see that this coloration on the right hand plug right in the middle of the bend which is right where you want to be for some reason it appears that the left one which I'm assuming is the rear cylinder is a little bit forward of that but that's okay.. and it appears you just running a tad rich on the front which is kind of normal on these evos when you get them running anything nice the front for some reason runs Richard in the rear and I think it has to do with heat. But if you want to turn your idle mixture screw in a half turn and see how the plugs clean up, I would go from there.. What is the current setting on the idle mixture screw?
Weird because the left one is the front and the right one is the rear. When I had the engine apart, the rear cylinder looked like it was running more rich than the front as well.
Weird because the left one is the front and the right one is the rear. When I had the engine apart, the rear cylinder looked like it was running more rich than the front as well.
The idle mixture is 2.5 turns.
what jets are you running and is it the stock needle? Stock jets are 42,170..
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