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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #251  
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AK, Obviously I am sory to hear about your problems. I wish you were in our area, perhaps you could have had less problems. Hope the rest of your riding carrer is better.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by miacycles
AK, Obviously I am sory to hear about your problems. I wish you were in our area, perhaps you could have had less problems. Hope the rest of your riding carrer is better.
Thanks for that. I've got maybe 50k on my Evo, I may just get it rebuilt and keep it on standby for the next time.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #253  
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AK97, which Ultima engine are you running? 113", 120", 127"?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #254  
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I have been having the same problem as AK97fxdwg. Mine has lunched 4 times. The last time it was with Harley lifters. It is not a lifter issue!! It is something in the cam area. I talked with John Sachs and Matt at Ultima. Matt sent me everything to fix this issue. Including lifter blocks and cam cover. We will see in a few thousand miles what will happen. Which will be next year as the cold weather is coming down on us here in Maine.

Goat
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:51 PM
  #255  
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Default evo upgrade ?

Sorry I don't mean to shanghi this thread but i've been reading the past thread for hours and hours it seems , now I can't find a conversation earler here about upgrading your stock evo , someone called it a 95" kit or something like that ?
I cant afford a $5000 new moter right now that blows up every 6 to 7 thousand miles ,would if I could though lol .
Would like to get more ponys out of my 1340??
Joe
 
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #256  
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Default On number two

I had the 'lifter problem' earlier this year at around 10k miles. Jireh sent me the parts (no charge) because it was 1 month out of warrenty. I removed the oil pan, flushed the oil cooler and changed all of the oil lines. I also chose to use Jims Big Axels (at my cost). Low and behold, after 6k miles, I started to get a noise in the rear cylinder. Motor still ran great and no compression loss but noise kept getting worse. Pulled the rear apart and found just where the needle bearings went. The crank had 1/4 inch of side play and the piston/cylinder was deeply scored, no idea what front looks like. Long story short, Bought new 113 due to time constraints (bike is my daily rider) and will rebuild the other for different toy when I go back to work (someday).
I did notice that on the new motor cases it no longer has the 'Made in USA' and it was hard to get my pipes to align and seal??? If this one goes out, I do hope that it is under warrenty.
What really sucks is that I had over 200k miles on the warmed-up 80".
Overall, the motor makes great power and looks good, time will tell!!!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by miacycles
CB, before you change the cam try this. The hydraulic lifters have about .200" of travel, adjusting the pushrods to their reccomended setting lengthens them about .100" or about the middle of the lifter travel. Now if you check your cam specs you will see when you adjust the valves at TDC, the lift is over .100", so you actually have a clearance of what ever the number is causing noise. If you do not have the pushrod at zero clearance then it will be worse. The mantra of adjusting valves at TDC started years ago when cam profiles were almost round, a lift of .300 was a lot and durations were nowhere near what modern cams are today. E-Mail me your phone number and I will explain what we do to minimize noise. You will still have some if you have a cam that makes real HP, but it will make as little noise as possible.
If you adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke, you better not have a valve open...if you do, that cam has a REAL problem. TDC lift specs are on the exhaust stroke.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by softailJoe
Sorry I don't mean to shanghi this thread but i've been reading the past thread for hours and hours it seems , now I can't find a conversation earler here about upgrading your stock evo , someone called it a 95" kit or something like that ?
I cant afford a $5000 new moter right now that blows up every 6 to 7 thousand miles ,would if I could though lol .
Would like to get more ponys out of my 1340??
Joe
Joe, there are a number of options for upgrading your 80" Evo. One of the least expensive, and most productive, is a stroker kit. You can go to 89" with a 4 5/8" stroke, and if you decide down the road that you want to add a big bore kit, you can go with 3 5/8" bore to make 96". One advantage to going this route with S&S parts is that you won't have to rebalance the flywheel assembly when you add the 3 5/8" big bore kit. Reliability of the 96" setup is very good as well. Go to S&S Cycle's web site and download their catalog. Lots of ideas in there, and their tech support guys are very good about answering questions to help you choose the right parts.
Axtell makes 3 13/16" bore cylinders, but unless your cases are 96 or newer, and in good condition, don't even consider it. The earlier Evo cases are weakened excessively by the cylinder hole boring in the case.

Ediited to add that S&S doesn't recommend boring the pre-96 cases even for 3 5/8 cylinders, but you can stroke them as far as 5" if you can fit the necessary longer cylinders in your frame. According to the S&S catalog, you can reach 95 hp with the 4 5/8 stroke, stock bore, correct pistons, Super Stock heads, and cam. Adding the 3 5/8" cylinders (according to their charts) adds a proportionally smaller hp increase, but mine dynoed significantly higher than their published numbers, 2 1/2 years after building it.
They now offer choices in their Hot Setup kits that were not available when I built mine, which will give more flexibility to the builder, and allow one to build as their budget as time and finances permit.
 

Last edited by Panshovevo; Oct 30, 2011 at 08:07 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:20 AM
  #259  
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Great thread! I seen the attractively priced Ultima's on eBay and thought that it was too good to be true. Then came here to learn more about them. After reading through more than 200 posts over the past several hours, I've learned that it is too good to be true. Then again, common sense should have told me that if the motors were any good, they'd be priced more in line with the S&S. Sure, I like wrenching ... but I like riding a whole lot more, and I hate having my bike down. There's just way too many issues for me. I'll either cough up the bucks for a quality S&S motor or just keep riding the **** out of my lil 80" Evo.

I feel bad for those of you that are trying to keep these Ultima's running, but many thanks for posting your issues. You saved me from wasting a lot of money and it's highly appreciated. I've read enough and wouldn't even install one if it was given to me. Even my old Panhead has always gotten me there & back ... without a tow.

The last cheap **** I bought was a RevTech 6-Speed that blew and locked my rear end at 75 MPH. That sucked! I should have spent the extra on a Jim's or Baker. This time I will either spend the extra on an S&S or do without.

And yes, I realize a few of you have manage to put some miles on yours and that's great for you. Unfortunately from what I've been reading, it's been very few. Thanks again to all that contributed
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by Panshovevo
If you adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke, you better not have a valve open...if you do, that cam has a REAL problem. TDC lift specs are on the exhaust stroke.
True, but do you realize how many weekend mechanics just bring the bike up to TDC and adjust away. Only to find out they have a lot of noise. We would probably get at least one call a month or somebody would bring a bike in with the noisest lifters you ever heard. That is why we always suggest doing one valve at a time, that makes ti pretty much idiot proof, without insulting them.
John
 
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