is this normal? or do i have an ign coil problem?
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Novice
Joined: May 2011
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From: Rhode Island
is this normal? or do i have an ign coil problem?
hello everybody! let me start off by saying i am a new member, however i have been using this forum for quite some time and i want to thank you all for sharing your knowledge with others and making my life alittle easier when i run into a problem with my build! i searched for this same problem in the forums but didnt seem to come up with anything so i figured i would post.
ok now on to my project, i am building a 93 Fatboy. i will post pics of the build soon. it has been completely torn down, jugs bored out, andrews cam, wisco high comp pistons, compufire adjustable ignition module, adjustable lifters, all new gaskets, motor is all back together, new stretched tank, new smooth rear fender, side mount plate bracket, fresh paint (painted it myself in my garage), drag bars, led turn signals, fat spoke rims and a few other mods.
ok now that i got that out of the way, im in the process of putting it all back together. tonight i connected the battery to check some wiring i had repaired from the previous owners hack jobs. i noticed that when i turn the ign switch on the lights would remain alittle dim for 5 - 10 seconds, then the ignition coil would click (i made sure it is the coil, you can feel it click) once it clicks all the lights are bright and everything is fine. is this normal? i checked the wiring, all looks correct. i have batt voltage at all 3 posts with ign on. (about 10 volts before click, 12 volts after click) the coil looks exactly like the crane fireball coil, but has no company markings on it. thank you for any help!!
sorry for the really long post, just figured id cover everything so you know where im at. again thanx to all of you for your help and time!!
ok now on to my project, i am building a 93 Fatboy. i will post pics of the build soon. it has been completely torn down, jugs bored out, andrews cam, wisco high comp pistons, compufire adjustable ignition module, adjustable lifters, all new gaskets, motor is all back together, new stretched tank, new smooth rear fender, side mount plate bracket, fresh paint (painted it myself in my garage), drag bars, led turn signals, fat spoke rims and a few other mods.
ok now that i got that out of the way, im in the process of putting it all back together. tonight i connected the battery to check some wiring i had repaired from the previous owners hack jobs. i noticed that when i turn the ign switch on the lights would remain alittle dim for 5 - 10 seconds, then the ignition coil would click (i made sure it is the coil, you can feel it click) once it clicks all the lights are bright and everything is fine. is this normal? i checked the wiring, all looks correct. i have batt voltage at all 3 posts with ign on. (about 10 volts before click, 12 volts after click) the coil looks exactly like the crane fireball coil, but has no company markings on it. thank you for any help!!
sorry for the really long post, just figured id cover everything so you know where im at. again thanx to all of you for your help and time!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
There is nothing in a coil that should click, that volt reading sounds like a break in a wire or something similar.
Disconnect the coil and re check...tell us what happened please.
Disconnect the coil and re check...tell us what happened please.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: May 2011
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From: Rhode Island
thanx for the reply. i didnt think so but i wasnt sure if there was something different in bike coils then car coils. stupid question i guess... once i disconnect the coil what should i re check. to see if i still have that initial draw? hmm ill post the resistance i get across the coil aswell. just wanna ride damn it! haha. its 5 am, gotta catch a few z's ill post in a few hours when im back in the garage!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,200
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
Spanners is suggesting you disconnect the coil and see if it does the same thing. I agree with him. There's nothing in a coil to click, and I think that any click you feel is likely radiated from somewhere else, like a breaker nearby. If the coil is clicking, it's shot. It shouldn't be putting that much load on the system anyway. Is this an electronic ignition system or points?
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: May 2011
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From: Rhode Island
it is an electronic ign. sorry for the delay, works been killing me and i havent had a chance to get back on here. so i disconnected the power from the coil. turned it on and everything is good. so then i placed the wire back on the coil and everything dimmed down and voltage dropped to 10.41 volts. then the coil discharged from the spark plug wire hook up into my finger about 3 inches away. haha oops. but after that it went right back up to 12 volts. why did it discharge?? hmm i didnt see that coming. but that must have been the click i was hearing, it must have been discharging, however i looked before i took it apart and didnt see an arc.... any thoughts?
EDIT: also i know this is probobly gonna stir up a huge debate but what do you all suggest as a replacment for my coil. it has a compufire single fire ignition installed in it so i want something that will work with that and not give me more problems. thanx.
EDIT: also i know this is probobly gonna stir up a huge debate but what do you all suggest as a replacment for my coil. it has a compufire single fire ignition installed in it so i want something that will work with that and not give me more problems. thanx.
Last edited by nrob84; Jun 1, 2011 at 05:03 PM. Reason: added more info
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 8
From: Vancouver Island British Colombia Canada
Check for proper grounding in your primary ignition. Your going to have to trace some wires! My guess is wiring at your nose cone area is the culprit. Maybe something touching where it should not. the coil should not discharge until the circuit is complete to allow it to dump. Your dumps every time you turn on the ignition regardless of your rotor location.
This is why I suspect a faulty wire is completing your circuit!
Hatch.
This is why I suspect a faulty wire is completing your circuit!
Hatch.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Check for proper grounding in your primary ignition. Your going to have to trace some wires! My guess is wiring at your nose cone area is the culprit. Maybe something touching where it should not. the coil should not discharge until the circuit is complete to allow it to dump. Your dumps every time you turn on the ignition regardless of your rotor location.
This is why I suspect a faulty wire is completing your circuit!
Hatch.
This is why I suspect a faulty wire is completing your circuit!
Hatch.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,200
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
I'm wondering if it isn't the aftermarket ignition module. I'm still having problems seeing how this could happen. The coil negative is normally shorted to ground. This is what charges the coil. The short is opened and the coil fires.
So, the short is normal and yet this one is acting differently. At 3 ohms on the coil, there would be 4 amps flowing through the circuit. This shouldn't make the headlight dim. I wonder if the coil is shorting internally under load but not showing the short with an ohm meter? Or is the coil somehow shorting to ground, such as at the mounting bolts? I think another coil to at least check with is reasonable. Even an automotive coil temporarily wired in place of the existing coil could be diagnostic (do the lights dim the same?) Also, put an ammeter in series with the coil and see how much current is flowing through that when the headlight dims.
So, the short is normal and yet this one is acting differently. At 3 ohms on the coil, there would be 4 amps flowing through the circuit. This shouldn't make the headlight dim. I wonder if the coil is shorting internally under load but not showing the short with an ohm meter? Or is the coil somehow shorting to ground, such as at the mounting bolts? I think another coil to at least check with is reasonable. Even an automotive coil temporarily wired in place of the existing coil could be diagnostic (do the lights dim the same?) Also, put an ammeter in series with the coil and see how much current is flowing through that when the headlight dims.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 20
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From: Rhode Island
THANX FOR THE HELP ON THIS ONE!!! ok here is what i just found, when i turn the ignition on it draws (i put the meter between the + on the batt and the + lead for the batt) 3.46 amps. then the coil clicks and the draw drops to .231 does this sound ok?? then i checked continuity between the wires from the ignition module and ground and there is none, so no short to ground. now i reconnected ONLY the positive feed to the coil and no click and no voltage drop, then i reconnected the negative leads one at a time, it doesnt matter which one i connect or to which side it always clicks and has that initial draw.... im stumped.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 20
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From: Rhode Island
wait, i just re-ohmed the coil, both sides of the primary read 3 ohms. both of the secondary read 12660 ohms. or 12.66 Kiloohms. is this right??
Last edited by nrob84; Jun 3, 2011 at 02:41 PM. Reason: wrong numbers