looking at head work
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Ohio
I've got *zero* experience setting up pushrods. I'll have my buddy swing by for that part of the job (hes been wrenching on harleys for 30 years)[/QUOTE]
Sounds like a plan and have seen those TP's go for $225 on Ebay before, should pull my engine down and put some rockers in but plans are a big cube engine and pull the little 89" out.
Sounds like a plan and have seen those TP's go for $225 on Ebay before, should pull my engine down and put some rockers in but plans are a big cube engine and pull the little 89" out.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Massachusetts
Ultima's have a different ratio and will be ugly with the Woods ramps. A guy on Ebay called Shovelkicker sells new TP roller rockers and go for 1/3 of the price. TP has a good name and the Evo and Twinkee roller rockers are the same but with a W6 you will be fine without them but wouldn't hurt to have them.
180-190 static is perfect, CR's would be a bonus. I have a AllsBalls starter, HD battery just finished it's 4th season and have gotton some kickback during hot temp heatsoak with the older battery and 190 static, CR's would be a nice addition for starter clutch wear but a new battery rips my engine over.
All I can say is giddy up and remember to set the plungers deeper in the lifter, actually with the cylinder grow from heat expansion, the setting is coming back close to a little deeper than .500, a Woods cam can clatter if it gets on the shallow side of .500 and you will pull it out.
180-190 static is perfect, CR's would be a bonus. I have a AllsBalls starter, HD battery just finished it's 4th season and have gotton some kickback during hot temp heatsoak with the older battery and 190 static, CR's would be a nice addition for starter clutch wear but a new battery rips my engine over.
All I can say is giddy up and remember to set the plungers deeper in the lifter, actually with the cylinder grow from heat expansion, the setting is coming back close to a little deeper than .500, a Woods cam can clatter if it gets on the shallow side of .500 and you will pull it out.
can you explain the .500 on the plungers? every pushrod spec i've seen had a "number of turns" spec, no actual measurements?
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
>500 is a wrong number, hydraulic liters have about .200" of travel in the plunger. They like to be set around the center of travel, or about .100". To get this setting take the number of threads per in that your pushrods have and put a decimal point in it. For example 32 TPI would be 3.2 turns, 40 TPI would be 4.0 turns, that gives you the number of turns you need to turn the pushrod after you have adjusted all of the free play (any up and down movement) out of the pushrod when it is on the heal of the cam. Now we've found with the woods cams you can go an extra 1/2 turn or so to help limit valve train noise. Oh and be sure you have a good oil pump that will keep the lifter pumped up!! Hope this helps.
John
John
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From: Ohio
Thanks for having my back John! Alot of numbers floating thru my head, working 72 hours in a fast paced service office and wearing down mentally. Suprised I havn't typed "No, your truck isn't ready yet" and to be honest, this forum helps me keep my sanity. Jasper, apolgies for misleading info in a critical area.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Nov 3, 2012 at 07:37 PM.
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Road Captain
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From: Massachusetts
ok, that makes wayyy more sense. so we basically take out the free play, set the lash based on the cam / pushrod spec, but add an extra 1/2 turn (or whatever woods says) to really snug it up.
oh, it's got an S&S oil pump....so it should be plenty strong to keep the lifters pumped up
oh, it's got an S&S oil pump....so it should be plenty strong to keep the lifters pumped up
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