EVO All Evo Model Discussion

replacing lifters

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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #31  
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"Heim joint" is another term for "Rod End." It was probably a brand name once, but I'm not sure on that. Another place you have a similar joint would be your shift linkage.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
"Heim joint" is another term for "Rod End." It was probably a brand name once, but I'm not sure on that. Another place you have a similar joint would be your shift linkage.
thanks drhess. I had never heard that term before. THanks for clearing it up!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:43 PM
  #33  
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Yes Heim joint was a manufacturers name. If you can't find the noise in the valve train, here's a weird thing we found once. After chasing a "valve train noise" for over a week we discovered it was a bad compensator. The noise traveled through the engine and you would swear it was the front exhaust making the noise. Not saying this is your problem, but just in case, after you check the valve train to include the guide, etc.
John
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #34  
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Default upper end noise.

Originally Posted by Tommy Hager
here is a link to listen if u like. Yeah the first thing I done was check the screen and readjust pushrods.And using just standard 20/50 from the HD shop.
Harley engine noise. - YouTube
Im no expert... but thanks to your YouTube link i would definately say the tapping noise is originating from where you first described . Your camera mike picks it up clearly.
So here are my observations...
1) you say the engine will actually stall at times and i also hear a very sick idle on your video.
2) in my opinion this very loud and consistant tick is an internal motor problem and not a external problem such as a bad motor mount etc.
3) your adjustable pushrods would be stout aftermarket units and there " straightness " is probably not the culprit here.

What to do .?
First ensure that your adjustable pushrods are adjusted correctly and are locked into these adjustments.
Check for a collapsed hydraulic lifter that has now become a misplaced solid lifter.
Check for a bent valve that refuses to close completely.
Check the rocker arm system for any major wear of components.
Lastly ... considering your above symptoms i would do a compression and or vacume test to verify exactly what is going on here as its a cheap and easy way to get pointed in the right direction.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by machinehed
Im no expert... but thanks to your YouTube link i would definately say the tapping noise is originating from where you first described . Your camera mike picks it up clearly.
So here are my observations...
1) you say the engine will actually stall at times and i also hear a very sick idle on your video.
2) in my opinion this very loud and consistant tick is an internal motor problem and not a external problem such as a bad motor mount etc.
3) your adjustable pushrods would be stout aftermarket units and there " straightness " is probably not the culprit here.

What to do .?
First ensure that your adjustable pushrods are adjusted correctly and are locked into these adjustments.
Check for a collapsed hydraulic lifter that has now become a misplaced solid lifter.
Check for a bent valve that refuses to close completely.
Check the rocker arm system for any major wear of components.
Lastly ... considering your above symptoms i would do a compression and or vacume test to verify exactly what is going on here as its a cheap and easy way to get pointed in the right direction.
thanks a bunch for the input! I have done a compression check on it. I cant remember the exact reading but it was within limits of what I looked up online and the heads were within just a couple lbs of eachother. Today when I was putting lifters in I was taking the rear pushrods out when I noticed a wobble in both of them when spinning. So I took them all the way out and best I can tell the push rod is straight but the adjustable part on the bottom IS bent alittle. When I roll them across my work bench I can see the wobble. I cant tell by wear marks if they have been hitting anything. The front set was straight as an arrow. U think this is where my noise was coming from? Im ordering new push rods today. Need them or not Im not putting it back together with those wobbling ones. Oh and the idle is because its is a cold natured old bitch..lol once it warms up it idles just fine. I was recording it cold because this is when it makes the most noise.
 

Last edited by Tommy Hager; Jun 17, 2013 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Tommy Hager
thanks a bunch for the input! I have done a compression check on it. I cant remember the exact reading but it was within limits of what I looked up online and the heads were within just a couple lbs of eachother. Today when I was putting lifters in I was taking the rear pushrods out when I noticed a wobble in both of them when spinning. So I took them all the way out and best I can tell the push rod is straight but the adjustable part on the bottom IS bent alittle. When I roll them across my work bench I can see the wobble. I cant tell by wear marks if they have been hitting anything. The front set was straight as an arrow. U think this is where my noise was coming from? Im ordering new push rods today. Need them or not Im not putting it back together with those wobbling ones. Oh and the idle is because its is a cold natured old bitch..lol once it warms up it idles just fine. I was recording it cold because this is when it makes the most noise.
In my experience, MOST adjustable pushrods have some wobble where they are brazed together. When I put adjustable pushrods in my bike, the dealer let me sort through 3 sets of Screamin' Eagle pushrods to find 4 that were nearly straight.

When you get the new rods, check them for straightness. Put the one with the least wobble in the front exhaust position. that position has the pushrod at the greatest angle and is the most likely to rub on the pushrod tube.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #37  
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Be aware that some sets have different lengths for intakes and exhaust.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Uncle G.
In my experience, MOST adjustable pushrods have some wobble where they are brazed together. When I put adjustable pushrods in my bike, the dealer let me sort through 3 sets of Screamin' Eagle pushrods to find 4 that were nearly straight.

When you get the new rods, check them for straightness. Put the one with the least wobble in the front exhaust position. that position has the pushrod at the greatest angle and is the most likely to rub on the pushrod tube.
thanks UncleG..I wasn't aware of that.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #39  
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Last question... I cant get the rear tappet block out. Its hitting a fin on the motor before I can get it up far enough to come out. I have used a paper clip to lift the lifters up but didn't help. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 06:14 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Tommy Hager
Last question... I cant get the rear tappet block out. Its hitting a fin on the motor before I can get it up far enough to come out. I have used a paper clip to lift the lifters up but didn't help. Any suggestions?
That's a new one on me. It's been a while since I've had my lifter blocks out, but I don't recall that happening.
 
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