Floating Rotors
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 625
Likes: 102
From: New Albany, Ms.
These
these:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/243-448
or these:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-332
Ride Safe,
Harold
Banned
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 418
Likes: 1
From: Overseas
.... Floating rotors may work for you. If so, great.
I've yet to disassemble to investigate, they may just need a clean (that and a plastic mallet tap to mounts ...).
What I fear is that the actually mounting surfaces on the wheel are off and that is why the last owner replaced them in the first place.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 3
From: Styxville
The reason for floating rotors is to stop disc distortion from heat.
Because the outside diameter of the disc is moving faster than the inner diameter, the outside gets hotter. Under severe braking, the heat differential can be enough to make the disc "cone". This then pushes the pads and pistons back into the calipers too far and makes for mushy braking.
By separating the swept area of the disc from the inner part of the disc and mounting it on "floating" buttons, it is free to expand when it gets hot and remains flat.
So if you add four-pot calipers and ride hard two-up down mountain passes etc, you may need the full floaters. Or if you ride in a more steady manner, using the heavy braking capacity just for emergencies etc, the non-floaters may still work ok for you.
They have been running full floating discs on sport bikes for at least, um, two decades or more. Never heard one rattle yet. (Except BMW's early attempts, which are fixed with a retro-fit anti-rattle kit of spring washers.)
Because the outside diameter of the disc is moving faster than the inner diameter, the outside gets hotter. Under severe braking, the heat differential can be enough to make the disc "cone". This then pushes the pads and pistons back into the calipers too far and makes for mushy braking.
By separating the swept area of the disc from the inner part of the disc and mounting it on "floating" buttons, it is free to expand when it gets hot and remains flat.
So if you add four-pot calipers and ride hard two-up down mountain passes etc, you may need the full floaters. Or if you ride in a more steady manner, using the heavy braking capacity just for emergencies etc, the non-floaters may still work ok for you.
They have been running full floating discs on sport bikes for at least, um, two decades or more. Never heard one rattle yet. (Except BMW's early attempts, which are fixed with a retro-fit anti-rattle kit of spring washers.)
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: The Great Southwest Desert
True full floaters rattle. The sprung button semi floater are made that way as a compromise to stop the rattle. The coefficient of friction is much better with iron over stainless, but for street riders the aesthetics are more important. ( and the average rider on a street bike would kill themselves with the brakes we have on race bikes. Too much inital bite and finese required for modulation. )
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