As Roney used to say..."Well..."

My 89 FLHS is doing the same thing(sounds like). Runs like an Evo at idle up to 1900'ish then hard vibration up to 2200'ish, then smooths out and sounds great. I first noticed it when I pulled the clutch while coasting to a stop in traffic. I can duplicate the vibration every time either while riding or just twisting the throttle in neutral, clutch in or clutch out.

I've read the 15 pages of this post and I'm patiently awaiting your results. I can't add much to the many suggestions, but the "crank balance" / clutch pak angle of thought is just a bit scarry. $$$. Makes perfect sense because like it was said many times in this thread, vibrations are harmonic. An off balance condition exists at 2 RPMs and at 2000 RPMs. It's the frequency that makes a vibration noticable. Finding the source of the imballance is the key.

Just a thought. What about a failing or failed valve spring? This also would lead to a rough condition as would a worn lifter. Valve train noise is not that same as valve train tapping. Sometimes I have a ticking, sometimes a clatter. Comes and goes at different RPMs.

Thanks for letting me chime in.

 

Hub bearing is so cheap that you might as well just replace it, the check just involves looking for play as you waggle the hub and roughness as you spin it once you have cleaned the bearing.....to go so far in and not replace it is a false economy really.

 

. Spanners, by no comment on the rest I assume you think I'm nuts? Hub bearing is a $90 bearing isn't it? I haven't checked the manual, when I looked at it last week it turned smooth, couldn't really see it. I read you need to get it pressed in and out and stopped there since I don't know how to do it without a press.

 

The most cost efficient way to replace the bearing is look in your area for a company like motion industries or a bearing supply. I use bearing supply companies for all my bearings. If you have the part number or take the bearing with you it usually cost 20% of what an indie or dealer will charge.

 

I have a local koyo dealer. I just have to figure out the press part. Again might not even need it but if it's easy and apart might as well. It's going to run like a brand new bike if jp ever gets me my order

 

I don't think you are nuts but I am interested to see what happens. I have never had reason to mess with compensators except when bikes come in and the nut has come undone, so I am not going to support or deny your actions at this stage. I have yet to see one fail.

If hub bearing is smooth and there is no wobble then save your money....you will need it for that compensator assy

 

I go to my local car garage and borrow theirs....they just love having Harley parts in the shop for some reason, I drop them a Case of beers at Christmas.

 

The Comp is an assembly. The shims you speak of would have not a thing to do with the compression of the spring pack.

 

The shims will push the whole assembly closer to the spring pack plate putting more tension on it. People have placed extra springs in the pack putting more tension on it once the cam slides into it as well.

 

Extra diaphram springs added to the originals I'll buy.

I stand by my previous statement on shimming the sprocket.

Look at it this way. If you shim to align your primary chain, then realign it to compensate for the spring tension. You have to give up on the chain alignment.

Doesn't work that way.

The bottom line is the springs can wear just like the clutch diaphram spring can. End result is the problem of holding power.

Once the holding power weakens, Things do not work as they should.