If spanners is right then now is the perfect time to put in a stroker crank.

It is kinda a win-win really.
If it works and the shaking is back to normal then all to the good.
If it doesn't fix the shaking it will get you over the 2k boundary very fast.

Just a thought.

 

I'd like to see the problem diagnosed first, however my professionally built stroker was remarkably smooth.

 

Is there any other way to check a crank than pulling it and putting it on a truing stand?

 

You can check it in the motor but its not as accurate, however it might show something.

I am wondering if someone did something to the crank to change the balance factor, like those mercury rings you can get?

Or they rebored one pot but used a different make of piston?....could be one of those totally obscure faults that leaves you scratching your head.

OR...how about this....its a feature of the aftermarket motor mount, its harmonics are different to the OEM one because its a different material and design and the trade-off you get for better handling is this vibe patch?

You know what? That could just be it....you see HD don't make any of their components by accident, they test and research and yes, some of the bike is a compromise and you can bias the compromise through fitting aftermarket systems...anybody willing to vote for that one?

 

It's not the mount, it was worse with the stock one. I replaced the rear for nothing already too. I'd buy a brand new one, but I don't want to be out another $100 for nothing.

 

I was just looking at my coil checking for cracks or anything and just noticed something I didn't before. I have two different plug wires. Short one is a little thicker, the longer one has a texture on it assume it's older. I don't think it matters since they both measured within specs for ohms but thought id mention it.

 

Didn't read all the posts but the first few described my 97 Electra Glide problem to a tee. Had done everything mentioned here and on another forum I visit. After about a year of chasing and as you mentioned I was masking the problem. I had asked Tom at American Machine and Supply in Ft worth Tx if he would entertain the idea of a phone conversation. I hate typing anyway BG He called me, we talked a bit about what had been done. Bottom line was I asked " where would you look short of tearing the motor apart" His answer was the compensator and clutch basket, especially the clutch basket bearing and the splines. So I tore the primary apart Again and this time lucked out in noticing a problem. The rivets that hold the clutch basket to the gear were Lose. Called Tom back Was told good catch and he'd get a clutch basket out to me asap. I can see the gauges in the fairing between 1900- 2200 rpm. If I had not found this I was gonna take my losses and move on to a different bike'

WP

 

I'm hoping that's an optical illusion with the bars, they look like rubber..... The thing to remember with vibrations, is that everything on the planet has a frequency that it will vibrate at. So, it most certainly could be a crank.. You have probably experienced a misbalanced tire at some point. That tire will be worse at a particular speed, very similar to your situation.. Having covered everything that you have, I still stand by the "find another opinion locally" statement. But, I'd be inclined to head towards the crank at this point. You can pull the cam cover and primary, then use a dial indicator to see what the run-out is on either side. Should be a procedure in the shop manual, certainly on youtube.. Johnson Engine Technology is in RI, not sure where they are from you, but they are pretty methodical about measurements and balance.. Might be worth talking to them..

 

RI is a solid 1.5 hours from here. On the clutch, I don't know that I checked the rivets, it doesn't change with clutch in or out or in gear driving or sitting still so I assumed that crossed the clutch off the list, but I don't know if the clutch or comp has been ruled out. If I could get it running with it all removed I'd know instantly if it was engine or some thing from comp clutch or trans. I found another local shop but they are only open m-f and don't answer the phone so I'm going to have to leave a message and try to touch base to see if they'd take a quick look and see if it's worth their time to give me 5 minutes of free time to sit on it and twist the throttle. I had a bad experience at the 3rd and 4th local shop so I'm down to two and one won't look, have to leave it so I'm looking at a fat bill just to drop it there and the result might be, "I checked everything you did, here's your bill".

As far as the wavy bars, yes the video won't pick it up and makes it look wavy. it's shaking too hard and fast but you can see how far it's moving and the noise is the handlebars shaking

 

Going over frame and engine noticed sealant where cases meet. I don't think it would be from the factory and still there after 42k miles. Assume cases split at some point on it? Maybe someone already went into the flywheel looking to repair and found nothing?