To shift the way you want to you need an air shifter, you are supposed to back off the throttle to change gear on the stock tranny, its designed for a 65HP cruiser with a fat chick on the back...it ain't a drag box....stop abusing it and either change how you ride or change the tranny setup before you end up with a large hole between the motor and the swing arm .....and remember......the tranny case holds the swing arm on!!!

 

i'm not QUITE at the point of needing an air shifter...although if i went that route the Pingel electric rig is pretty nifty

let me rephrase....I do "let off" (I'm not clutchless shifting @ 6700rpm and letting it bounce the limiter between gears). when I say I have to let off, i mean a solid second or so to let the revs REALLY fall (like 4000rpm) before it'll hit the next gear smoothly. Ive never had this issue before (and my riding habits havent changed much...if anything im more tame now cause i know what it'll do when it gets out of hand)....but @ 95lb/ft of torque on the 80"....I didnt have this issue. perhaps ive just found the mechanical limit of the shift drum/forks/pawl/etc....but then the sicillian in me comes out and i say "f*** that this thing aint beating me"


had a chat with Baker. depends on winter OT/budget...but a DD5 with a stretched out 1st/2nd and an OD (.88 or .86 i forget now) would be REAL fun...especially coupled with their ignition kill drum that I could wire into my spare toggle switch on the nacelle.

 

we do two mods in this issue -

1 - the baker drum is the one and the baker lever as well with the fork type return spring

2 - the right side door has 2 small bearings and those bearings have a 3 ball contact // and in big power units they walk around, and this also causes a shift issue - sooo we replace them with 5 ball contact bearings, its a multi piece bearing and they dont move once installed as its also radial load type bearing

 

the baker drum/pawl kit is the *fix* i keep hearing about, but you're the first one to confirm it actually works


the trap door has already been replaced with the later (mines from an 05 i think) twin cam trap door, complete with MUCH larger shaft bearings (just guessing by looking at them, 25-30% larger)

 

the shifting is very noticeable right away cant miss a gear

i see the larger ones in twinkies - but the 5 point i am refering to are not only 5 contact point but are radial load -

my guess that is harleys fix for the bearing issue - cant hurt to try it

 

I have the baker drum/pawl along with the later trap door. Here is a pic to show the bearing OD difference.

 

^^ yup. thats the trap door I have (the later twin-cam version with the larger bearings)

so i should be set there. now to price out the baker drum/pawl. looks like I can do that stuff from the top cap. only downside seems to be having to pull the exhaust off to get the tranny door off. oh well, could be worse (unless I'm completely mistaken and the inner primary has to come off too...that'd suck).

 

The gear set has to come out of the case to remove the pawl. You can do the drum through the top though.

 

Jasper, What are you using to lube your tranny?

Not to start an argument on this but ... I was having the best luck using 75W140 and just put Formula back in recently with the last change. I'm now having this very same issue (again) when launching my bagger through the gears with shifting at around 5K -5.2K rpms.

I'm going back to gear lube!

BTW I'm so happy with the changes I've made this year. I lift the front end off the ground, even 2 up, going into second. What a rush for such a big hog.

 

using Spectro 75-140 (synthetic) since day 1

I did try a BelRay "GearSaver" (i think) once. shifted like crap...swapped it out immediately and all the issues disappeared. stuck with Spectro since.