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EFI touring models remap question

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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Old Gunny
The dealer will sell you a SERT for about 400+ bucks.
TTS Mastertune can be got for 425 bucks.
If you get a SERT you will exhaust the usefullness in about 1 year. Plus the dealer will charge you, unless you learn how to to do yourself, about 75-100 per session unless it is a dyno session @ 150 hour.
The TTS Mastertune does it all. You buy it and you use it all you want. You just have to learn how it works. Not that hard.
The OP has an open loop bike. The TTS won't do any more tuning for him than the SERT will.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by harleytuner
Does your bike have a stage I download in it now? If so, you're fine, don"t change a thing. Harley makes "canned MAPS" for stage I kits, they are a "safe", 50 state legal MAP for all stage I applications. If you were running a pipe and A/C, had the download and then changed the pipes, the download will still be fine for you.

You guys telling this guy to just throw more money at his bike is wrong, he obviosly doesn't want to get into self tuning, some people actually just want to ride their bikes, some people don't really care about getting the maximum performance out of their bikes. This guy soundslike 1 of them. I can appreciate giving props to the sponsors, but it's in every post anymore. The guy said he thought the slip ons were too expensive, so I doubt he wants to throw another 400 + on a tuner then have to learn how to tune it.
Thank you!!! I do just want to ride!!! As I believe I stated in my original post I have no intention of ever racing it or running it down the 1/4 mile to see if I can break the sound barrier or anything.

I DO however and very much care that the bike runs properly and want to be sure that whatever I do to modify it doesn't damage it in the process. I have discovered with all the answers that I received that there a many options out there and being the numb-skull that I am it is all a bit overwhelming and some what confusing. With that being said - I am willing to pay out whatever it takes (with in reason!!!!) to assure that the bike will run great and run for a long time to come.

I hope that makes sense. So I guess that leads to the next question and that is what would everyone recommend for a fuel management "system" for my bike. and please be objective. I don't want to spend a "bazillion" dollars here. - Thank You all!
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 05:25 PM
  #23  
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you will not damagee the engine ... the harley davidson programming that is in your ecm will not allow the engine to damage its self it is sort of a fail safe system .
The reason i suggested the ttts is . it is far superior to any tuning device on the market today including the sest.
also the TTS already has stage 1 maps in it ..
also in the future if you plan any other mods you will alreeady have the tuning device.
the power commander is also a good tuning devicee.
now with the TTS you can retreive the Stock map and save it just in case you decide to sell your bike and take off the parts and put the stock ones back on .
there are people who do that.
also the tts just like the sert and sest has data mode so if your bike throws a code you can see what code it is and clear it.
if you have a power commander you cannot clearr codes or see them.
there is no sales pitch i dont give a rats tail what you buy i am just trying to save you the BS that i went thru when i took the advice of people who thought they knew whaat they were talking about.
if you do decide to go with the TTS and need a map i will send you one .
FREE.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 05:17 AM
  #24  
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there is no sales pitch i dont give a rats tail what you buy i am just trying to save you the BS that i went thru when i took the advice of people who thought they knew whaat they were talking about.
if you do decide to go with the TTS and need a map i will send you one .
FREE.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Wow! thanks. I really appreciate that. I will let you know definetly.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:59 AM
  #25  
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You can also go with the PCIII, (less money than the TTS and can be used when/if you do any further upgrades). they also have free MAPS and to return the ECU to stock, all you have to do is take the PCIII off. But, like stated above, it won't retrieve fault codes. Or you can just leave it like it is, take the bike to a dyno and have them give you an A/F check to see how you are running.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by harleytuner
You can also go with the PCIII, (less money than the TTS and can be used when/if you do any further upgrades). they also have free MAPS and to return the ECU to stock, all you have to do is take the PCIII off. But, like stated above, it won't retrieve fault codes. Or you can just leave it like it is, take the bike to a dyno and have them give you an A/F check to see how you are running.
Question for you... if you have upgraded cams to S&S 510G's 04' 88" RKC and the it is supposed to have a stage 1 flash already, I have looked at the map and which was loaded on the PCIIIUSB and it looks lean at the top end. There have been no ignition changes on the ignition map either... shouldn't there at the least be added ignition in the map in the top end??? The intake has been changed and runnin Sreamin Eagle slipons with the baffles gutted! the map that was sent with the PCIII (M807-005)
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by harleytuner
You can also go with the PCIII, (less money than the TTS and can be used when/if you do any further upgrades). they also have free MAPS and to return the ECU to stock, all you have to do is take the PCIII off. But, like stated above, it won't retrieve fault codes. Or you can just leave it like it is, take the bike to a dyno and have them give you an A/F check to see how you are running.
I like the idea of bringing it to a place that does the dyno. Appx. how much does it cost to have this done?

The Biatch part of this (I suspect) is that if I do the dyno and the bike is running to lean for my comfort zone then I decide to go with a PC of some kind and I would have to pay for the dyno a second time.

I must be sounding cheap to all of you. I just don't want to be taken and I'm trying to get the most "bang for the buck" is all.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #28  
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I have the V&H big sucker,V&H pipes and an Arlen Ness Big Shot FTI. The Big Shot was $225.00. You can not belive how much differant my bike runs now.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:51 AM
  #29  
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Question for you... if you have upgraded cams to S&S 510G's 04' 88" RKC and the it is supposed to have a stage 1 flash already, I have looked at the map and which was loaded on the PCIIIUSB and it looks lean at the top end. There have been no ignition changes on the ignition map either... shouldn't there at the least be added ignition in the map in the top end??? The intake has been changed and runnin Sreamin Eagle slipons with the baffles gutted! the map that was sent with the PCIII (M807-005)
It's hard to say what you're doing without knowing what MAP you are running. If it is a stage 1 MAP then yes, it will need to be corrected for your cams or it will be running lean. I make ignition changes on every bike I dyno. But especially if it has cams.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:58 AM
  #30  
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I like the idea of bringing it to a place that does the dyno. Appx. how much does it cost to have this done?

The Biatch part of this (I suspect) is that if I do the dyno and the bike is running to lean for my comfort zone then I decide to go with a PC of some kind and I would have to pay for the dyno a second time.

I must be sounding cheap to all of you. I just don't want to be taken and I'm trying to get the most "bang for the buck" is all.
The only way for a tuner to make adjustment on a dyno is if you have fuel management of some sort, i.e. PCIII, SERT, TTS already. A typical dyno will run you approximately $250. (at least in my area). If you find a competent tuner and explain to him (not the service writer, the tuner) what you are looking for, he should be able to accomodate you. I don't think you are being cheap, I think you are being smart. The money it would cost you to have your bike done twicecould be money that you could spend on other stuff for your bike.
 
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