Is there a sticky that explaines stage 1? As I understand it stage 1 is a new air intake, new slip ons, and a fuel management system or adjustments.

However, from what I have read, there are parts or systems out there that will void the H-D warranty. Is there a list? I have a two week old FLHRC and do not want to have warranty issues.

Also, I have read about the Magnuson/Moss decision. However, I live in California. I would have to guess that making changes, such as getting rid of the cat, would not be included in the M/M decision because it is an illegal modification. As such, would such an improvement void the warranty?

I have been considering the V&H PowerDual. Along with the V02 Naked w/ the stock cover. (I happen to like the stock look.) I have also been considering finding some stock slip ons (Again, I like the stock look) and removing the baffles and installing them. Or, V&H slip ons. I am still working on this decision. With these modifications I believe I would need a way to correct the fuel mixture. I am not interested in spending a lot of money having H-D dyno and adjust the bike if a bolt on unit like the FuelPak will do the job. I am new to this and so I am also looking into Fuel Moto. Do they not also make a way to adjust the mixture for optimum performance?

Anyway, after this long winded introduction.... And comments? Advice?

You can see my bikes info in my signature below.

 

You have properly defined Stage I and you are about to be introduced to the "Harley tax". However, be advised that if the dealer does the work, they will likely push H-D parts and the H-D flash to the ECM for the one time tuning/fuel adjustment. That may work for you but you should know that if you introduce any aftermarket componenents, like the VO2 intake or the V&H slipons do not play well with the H-D ECM flash which is compatible with all H-D parts.

You will need some fuel management system with your Stage I upgrade. The head pipes are fine and a good set of aftermarket slip ons, like the V&H units you mention, or Rush or Cycle Shack which are also good equipment. The SE air filter upgragde and the new exhaust will require fuel adjustment and the motor will be running leaner than in stock configuration. You don't need a fuel manaement system that will require dyno time for a Stage I upgrade. The operative word is NEED; there is no substitute for a dyno tune but you can manage a Stage I upgrade with one of the "pot" type systems like the Techlusion DFO. Very user friendly and many have used this system on Stage I uprades; a better option than the V&H Fuelpak, IMHO.

Fuel Moto does have some packages that are built around the DynoJet PC tuner. They have a library of "maps" that can be downloaded to your computer and you can upload them to the tuner. The PC tuner is a "piggy back" system that tricks the ECM into sending the required fuel to the motor. Not a bad way to go but I would go the DFO route because you can tune yourself. If the FuelMoto map is not just right, you will have to download/upload until it is, or hit the dyno.

I can't advise you on the cat but from what I read and hear, removing it doesn't really add much to the performance but does increase the volume of the exhaust. I do know that it can be removed without any indication from the outside that it has been removed. Whatever you do, don't run the slipons without the baffles.

http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/...945184_5528623


You just need to spend some time on the internet, educate yourself a little and continue using the forum as a resource as you gain knowledge. Just don't get in a hurry; don't pull the trigger until you are sure about your modifications.

 

Thanks djl

One of the reasons I am here is for the education from guys, and gals, who have more info than I do.

If you want to know about residential remodeling I am your man. And I am not bad with Ford diesels. But, Harley Davidsons.... I am just beginning.

Unfortunately your link does not seem to work.

Thanks again for the feedback.

 

Try this one

http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/...5184_5528623ll

You can also follow the below link to a thread where I posted the original link and get some additional info on cat removal. I am sure you won't be the only California rider that has removed the cat.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ing-cat-2.html

 

Fixed your link. Here ya' go:

http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/...5528623ll.html

Just needed to tack on a dot html.

 

Thanks but last link posted works fine.

 

The link seems to show a lot of "stuff" in the CAT. Surely the removal of all of this material would free up extra horse power.

Though I like to looks of the V&H PowerDuels X pipe.

I will look into the DFO.

Thanks for the info.

Now for an air cleaner.... I like the stock look and I am not trying to get the bike to stand up on end. Just free up some horses.

Why not run slip ons w/out baffles?

 

I am not so sure that removal of the material in the cat is going to unleash tons of HP but maybe someone that has removed the cat and has some before/after data can chime in.


The SE Stage I air filter upgrade will be sufficient

Turning that around, why would you want to presume that removing the baffles from an engineered system would produce more torque/horsepower? All you will gain is more noise that you will find annoying at cruise and you will lose some bottom end and midrange performance with the loss of backpressure. Don't do it; run the SE, V&H, Cycle Shack or Rush slipons out of the box.

 

Your definition of a stage 1 hits the mark, all I will add is that there is a reason for doing it, which is to remove the EPA or other restrictions, that inhibit performance. That includes an intake silencer, to reduce induction noise, as well as very quiet mufflers, but it also includes lean burn air/fuel and has in the past (may still do) included retarded ignition timing. Worst feature of all is the cripplingly high overall gearing, of which the 6-speed box is the worst culprit. The gearing and ignition timing are done to reduce noise levels at the road speeds the tests are conducted at.

So IMHO a dyno tune, along with any necessary downloaded revised maps, is pretty essential, to unravel those things I mention and optimise performance. No two bikes are the same and the options of bolt-on stuff are widely varied. Reduced gearing would also be a worthwhile improvement, although requires a bit more spanner work.