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Banging my head 45 won’t start

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Old Aug 6, 2022 | 05:47 PM
  #41  
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As I said , I took off the heads to get a better idea to what is going on.
Found the rear intake valve isn’t closing all the way when it should. Thought it might be an adjustment but when I took it all the way down the valve still doesn’t set.
At this point not sure if it’s the guide hanging it up or the valve spring.
So I’ll be pulling the motor to pull the cylinder jugs to see what’s up.
Not sure if I’m boring many all of you out there with this issue but from my experience sharing info no matter how small might help someone else in the future.
So my story continues once I complete the repairs.
My pain can be another riders gain.

 

Last edited by Scottie p; Aug 6, 2022 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2022 | 09:56 PM
  #42  
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valve stem is most likely suspended in the guide /rusted/, open it up, get some fine sand paper,
clean it, oil it well and you should be ok
 
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Old Aug 6, 2022 | 10:15 PM
  #43  
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If you've been using the bike then rust should not be the issue. Guide clearance set too tight stuck a valve.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2022 | 07:19 AM
  #44  
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Not boring!

So, the valve opens ok, but doesn't close?
A couple things to try before you pull the engine:
- could there be a piece of carbon under it? Maybe run a feeler gauge or something under the valve to dislodge it.
- Squirt liquid wrench or something similar under the valve down to the guide. Make sure you have plenty of valve clearance and try tapping the valve closed with a plastic hammer.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2022 | 08:01 AM
  #45  
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Do you even have to remove the engine to remove the cylinders? Re-read the post about it not closing all the way, assuming its opening and closing but not seating rather than stuck in one position?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2022 | 09:34 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by tasturbo86
Not boring!

So, the valve opens ok, but doesn't close?
A couple things to try before you pull the engine:
- could there be a piece of carbon under it? Maybe run a feeler gauge or something under the valve to dislodge it.
- Squirt liquid wrench or something similar under the valve down to the guide. Make sure you have plenty of valve clearance and try tapping the valve closed with a plastic hammer.
Exactly
 
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Old Aug 7, 2022 | 04:51 PM
  #47  
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So to answer a few questions here.
Yes the motor would need to be pulled to be able in removing of the cylinder jug.

Secondly I did find some carbon deposits that I thought were holding the valve open, so I cleaned that away !! No luck.

The next thing I’m trying ( thanks to the advice ) I’ve received from knowledgeable people here on the forum, is a squirt of penetrating in the valve guide and loosen valve completely.

I’ll let that sit over night and see if it frees it up!
All good info.
To be continued…
 
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Old Aug 7, 2022 | 06:46 PM
  #48  
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In-frame top end rebuild on a WLA


 
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Old Aug 7, 2022 | 10:25 PM
  #49  
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I must be missing something, because I only have 3”
on the high side and 5” on the lower side to remove the piston jug before it comes in contact with the support bar!!! Do we have the same frame ???
What I am I not seeing here?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 06:39 AM
  #50  
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Push the pistons down before you lift the cylinders off.
 
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