Dead Electrical - 2019 Heritage
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Tourer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 295
Likes: 110
From: KY
Dead Electrical - 2019 Heritage
Also posted in "Electrical"
Greetings all. Hoping everyone is well and has not had to deal with illness to friends and family.
I returned from a ride today and shut my bike off to open the garage door (left it in first gear). Went to restart and the entire electrical system was dead - zero - no electrics at all. It was as if the battery was not installed. Put it in neutral and pushed it into the garage. Don't know why but I suspected the "off / run" switch since there was zero electrics. But easiest to check were the fuses - all good. Knowing it was in neutral, flipped switch, no power. Decided to check the battery so removed that and though it was showing 13.28 volts, I was not able to check under a load - because of the virus and shops rules etc., I decided the battery was probably good and reinstalled. Power was restored.
My question - bike is a 2019 Heritage, 10,000 miles, and the terminals and connectors appeared free of corrosion. I did not even clean them since they looked normal - or were they? In my experience, corrosion has never completely killed electronics. The vehicle may not start but will at least chatter the solenoid.
Any input? I would not want this happening in the middle of nowhere and now I have in the back of my mind, something else could be wrong.
I am going to clean the terminals and connectors and apply dielectric grease.
Hoping for advice.
Stay safe.
Greetings all. Hoping everyone is well and has not had to deal with illness to friends and family.
I returned from a ride today and shut my bike off to open the garage door (left it in first gear). Went to restart and the entire electrical system was dead - zero - no electrics at all. It was as if the battery was not installed. Put it in neutral and pushed it into the garage. Don't know why but I suspected the "off / run" switch since there was zero electrics. But easiest to check were the fuses - all good. Knowing it was in neutral, flipped switch, no power. Decided to check the battery so removed that and though it was showing 13.28 volts, I was not able to check under a load - because of the virus and shops rules etc., I decided the battery was probably good and reinstalled. Power was restored.
My question - bike is a 2019 Heritage, 10,000 miles, and the terminals and connectors appeared free of corrosion. I did not even clean them since they looked normal - or were they? In my experience, corrosion has never completely killed electronics. The vehicle may not start but will at least chatter the solenoid.
Any input? I would not want this happening in the middle of nowhere and now I have in the back of my mind, something else could be wrong.
I am going to clean the terminals and connectors and apply dielectric grease.
Hoping for advice.
Stay safe.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 109
Likes: 15
If I am not mistaken, this year Heritage has a proximity key fob.
If that is the case, those batteries in those fobs can go bad/get weak in a short period of time, like within 1-2 years. If this battery is getting weak, it is possible your bike didn't recognize the fob in the vicinity and would not power up after engaging the run switch.
If that is the case, those batteries in those fobs can go bad/get weak in a short period of time, like within 1-2 years. If this battery is getting weak, it is possible your bike didn't recognize the fob in the vicinity and would not power up after engaging the run switch.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 295
Likes: 110
From: KY
If I am not mistaken, this year Heritage has a proximity key fob.
If that is the case, those batteries in those fobs can go bad/get weak in a short period of time, like within 1-2 years. If this battery is getting weak, it is possible your bike didn't recognize the fob in the vicinity and would not power up after engaging the run switch.
If that is the case, those batteries in those fobs can go bad/get weak in a short period of time, like within 1-2 years. If this battery is getting weak, it is possible your bike didn't recognize the fob in the vicinity and would not power up after engaging the run switch.
The dealership here has not heard of this issue before.
Now when I am solo riding, I am worried to shut the bike off!!!
Former Sponsor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 109
Likes: 15
Oh boy. That is a good one. These CAN bus electrical systems can be perplexing at times.
Did you bring to the dealer to see if they could retrieve any trouble codes that may have been stored?
I know you mentioned fuses, but I would look closely at the maxi fuse and ensure that it is good, fully seated in the housing, and the terminals look tight and clean.
If it's not a physical wiring or battery issue, it could very well be a BCM/ECM issue, but, really would just be me throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks.
Did you bring to the dealer to see if they could retrieve any trouble codes that may have been stored?
I know you mentioned fuses, but I would look closely at the maxi fuse and ensure that it is good, fully seated in the housing, and the terminals look tight and clean.
If it's not a physical wiring or battery issue, it could very well be a BCM/ECM issue, but, really would just be me throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 295
Likes: 110
From: KY
Oh boy. That is a good one. These CAN bus electrical systems can be perplexing at times.
Did you bring to the dealer to see if they could retrieve any trouble codes that may have been stored?
I know you mentioned fuses, but I would look closely at the maxi fuse and ensure that it is good, fully seated in the housing, and the terminals look tight and clean.
If it's not a physical wiring or battery issue, it could very well be a BCM/ECM issue, but, really would just be me throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks.
Did you bring to the dealer to see if they could retrieve any trouble codes that may have been stored?
I know you mentioned fuses, but I would look closely at the maxi fuse and ensure that it is good, fully seated in the housing, and the terminals look tight and clean.
If it's not a physical wiring or battery issue, it could very well be a BCM/ECM issue, but, really would just be me throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks.
I took a short ride today, no issues.
Now in the garage, changing oil and chain case lubricant. Going to pull the battery again and clean all connections and apply dielectric.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,406
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
Do they still have main fuses, or did they go back to main breaker? That or battery cable just came loose, and you tightened when you put back in. Surprised how much that happens. I'd lean to that.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 295
Likes: 110
From: KY
Still have fuses - there is a "block" that has the main 40 amp fuse, 5 amp battery power fuse and 7.5 amp tender fuse. Doubt the loose cable as they were still torqued and not loose when I removed them. Time will tell on this one, I guess. I certainly hope to not have it happen again when on a lonely road!
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,406
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
I doubt it fixed it self. Though in 200k miles, with my truck, I had to stalls, never knew why. So sometimes stuff doesn't happen again, but usually not.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 295
Likes: 110
From: KY
Yep - that's what I am afraid of! I would have been much happier if something obvious was there. Electrons can be tricky devils!
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