UPDATE:

I pulled the ecm calibration code. I spoke with Vance & Hines support and gave them all the information that I was able to get for exactly what was put into the bike by previous owner. They sent me what they say should be the correct map for the fuelpak. What I got was a totally different set of calibrations for the fuelpak than what it had before. I was hesitant but plugged them in. Took it on a run Saturday and it is a totally different machine now. more responsive, engine runs quieter, exhaust sound is more in line with what I would expect. Still considering switching it out to the SE race tuner though.

I bought a used 2008 Ultra.
Previous owner had a 103 kit done. That is all I knew at time of purchase other than the name of the indy shop that did it. The shop is great and the guy has since given me all the info he has.

So it has 103 big bore kit
SE 255 cams
K&N intake
SE 4" slip ons
V&H FuelPak

It seems to be running lean and not quite up to power around 80mph. I was wondering what might be going on. I found in the manual where they have written "ECM Calibration 34462-08A"
After some looking this seems to be the 96" Stage 1 download. The shop told me that the customer brought him all the stuff and he just did the work so I am wondering if this is not set correctly and I should go in and have the 102 Stage 2 download put on then start over with the FuelPak settings to ensure everything is correct.

To give a bit of background I went up over the Big Horns in Wyoming this weekend and fouled a plug. Rear cylinder was running rough and making some odd exhaust sounds. I assumed a bit of elevation sickness. Bought new plugs but when I pulled them out they were white and ashy. Not rich fouled as I would expect. The rear cylinder plug was missing a very small piece of the ground strap too. I changed plugs and finished the trip. Got home and pulled the new plugs to check and they too are very white and ashy looking already. So I am checking the settings to make sure it is correct.

 

Is the bike running with a Fuelpak or a Fuelpak3? If it's the Fuelpak, the AFR needs to be enriched with a new download for a 103. The Fuelpak3 can be set to Autotune to accomplish it.

 

No disrespect intended but forget the stage whatever stuff. Seems there are way too many definitions of each so one may never know what was actually done.

A full-featured set of tuning programs would fit your needs. The map has to have the correct cams settings, VE's need to be accurate, and the timing will likely require some attention.

Until you have those set properly, your bike will probably run mediocre at best.

Today's EFI systems don't allow for plug reading like in carb days. Remember, the system is using different tables and settings at every rpm/load range. Cruising along on the highway does not use the same part of the map as it would slowing down and coming to an idle. You can have a map that's fine a cruise but messed up at idle.

And don't be fooled by the calibration number...it's what's been done with the calibration that makes all the difference.

My suggestion would be to start fresh with a complete tuning program (one that can access/change the ECM tables) and let a competent tuner do his thing.

 

If I am not mistaken the FP3 does not work on the 08 Ultras, if this narrows it down.

 

It is the FuelPak not the FP3.
I just found out all the details on what was put into the engine but the question remains what was the ECM set for prior to the indy shop adding the 103, cams, and fuelpak. I think as pine tree said, that it is best for me to go to the dealer, have them flash the ECM and get me to square one, then work with V&H to get the tune corrected.

 

So the question now becomes, if starting over. Do I have dealer flash the ECM back to stock and let the FuelPak do all the adjustment. Or do I have the dealer flash according to the SE kit and cams and all that then adjust the FuelPak accordingly?

I am thinking option 2.

 

That particular Fuelpak may not be compatible with a 103". So you may have to start completely from scratch. Get the serial #'s from it and go from there.

 

As you've already made some mods including a different cam, the stock factory map isn't going to do much for you. As for a dealer download, that won't get you much either. Cam, VE, and timing settings will most likely need to be changed at the this point.

I'd suggest you consider a full-featured tuning program that allows access to the various tuning tables within the ECM so changes can be made there.

I know many speak about adjusting the AFR but that will be meaningless until the VE cells are correctly populated. And you can't do that until the cam setting (at least the IVO) is right.

Good luck!

 

Pine Tree you are going a bit over my head there. What do you mean by fully featured tuning program?
It currently has V&H fuelpak on it. Not the fp3. I am trying to figure out where to put the HD ECM then from there I should be able to work with V&H team to get the FuelPak set or is this not fully featured enough for what I am going to need to do?
As stated I bought the bike with this stuff already on it assuming it was correct. I am now seriously questioning the setup and I want to make it right.

 

It's a program (actually a set of programs) that allows direct access to the ECM and the various tuning tables within. Depending on the manufacturer, there's about 20 or so tables that are adjustable.

A full-featured program does not stay connected to the bike. The connection is via an interface and that, in turn, connects to a computer for viewing, analysis, and adjusting. Once the tuning process is complete, the cables are disconnected leaving nothing mounted.


The basis for ALL tunes are the volumetric efficiencies (or VE's). Each cylinder and each rpm/kPa require each cell to be set correctly. It's the VE's that determine how much air cell is getting and thus how much fuel to deliver to obtain certain desired results. If you have no idea how well each cylinder is breathing in each cell, you can only guess at how much fuel (and timing) to give it.

There's a big misconception that only significantly to highly modified bikes should consider a full-featured tuning program. Fact is, a completely stock bike with no mods at all will generally benefit from such a tuning program.

Hope that helps a bit more.