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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
If you're looking for fuel economy in the cruise range you can have both power and mileage in one tune. I see no rational reason to tune for economy anywhere else. The only drawback to increased mileage is some corresponding increase in heat and part-throttle response. I find both side-effects to be minimal on my '07 even when running at stoich.
If you're doing Basic tuning (closed-loop) you can't tune for WOT anyway, so I would use the same values that are present in the open-loop areas of the FM tune, then set Lambda as near 1.0 as you're willing to go for the closed-loop portion. For AFR bikes, set AFR values to 14.6 and Closed Loop Bias to 450-780 (lower being leaner).
I have a second tune which is the same as the normal tune except all AFR cells are at 13.0. This is for emergencies and I need all the cooling I can get, like for a summer bout of gridlock traffic that doesn't move for long periods.
I have looked everywhere but am unable to find the section to set Closed Loop Bias to 450-780. Where do I go to adjust CLB?
Thanks, IClick and Heatwave. IClick, I did exactly as you suggested a week ago and got about 7-10 deg. difference in temp. Country riding 55-60 mph. I will also try Heatwave's method and see how that turns out.
That jibes with my tests, as I ran about 7° cooler at 13.5 compared to 14.6 when I had my PCV-AT and a hardware switch. That isn't much, IMO, but the difference may be more pronounced at lower speeds. I.e., temperature may rise at a slower rate, but I haven't tested under those conditions.
Gas mileage will be several MPG higher at 14.6, as when I accidentally ran my rich PV tune (13.0) for a long day's ride my mileage was around 6mpg lower, and I saw no difference in ET and little in OT for that day vs. the next. I didn't notice much difference in throttle response either. I think the cooling effects of lowering AFR's is somewhat exaggerated based on my experience with this bike.
I have looked everywhere but am unable to find the section to set Closed Loop Bias to 450-780. Where do I go to adjust CLB?
CLB is only on AFR bikes, and like Heatwave said you don't have this table. You would set Lambda to .981-1.02 to stay in closed-loop, which achieves the same effect. I only mentioned CLB in my reply to you in an effort to avoid confusion for riders of older bikes like mine.
CLB is only on AFR bikes, and like Heatwave said you don't have this table. You would set Lambda to .931-1.02 to stay in closed-loop, which achieves the same effect.
Quick question: When people say they adjust the AFR (Lambda in my case) to Closed Loop for the "cruise range," what is the typical cruise range? Is it 2400 - 3400 and 30 MAP to 70 MAP, for example? Thanks for any advice here.
TedMan
What I did to establish my cruise range on the map was adding the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) to my gauges when logging data. I would then look at the log file in excel and note what Kpa value was at certain steady speeds, I varied my speed using different gears and cruise control to simulate different driving scenarios. From this I was able to set CL in the cruise range. Hope this helps.....
Quick question. Maybe I missed it througout the thread but does the PV have a feature that adjust the lag on the fly by wire system used in the 08 and up touring models? Im running a PCV but it does nothing for the lag in the throttle body. I was considering the Vance and Hines new throttle pak which claims to adjust the lag. Would like to stick to Dyno Jet.
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