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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 09:17 AM
  #2101  
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Originally Posted by Sam2010
VE number is maxed out at 127 is that correct? To get more room on VE number you increase the cubic inch number? My fuel moto map is set at 96.7 cubic inch.
127.5 is the max. Up your cu in 8% and decrease your ve tables 8%.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 09:34 AM
  #2102  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustDennis
With the sensors installed backwards, you will continue to make adjustments to the wrong vE values and the map would get further and further off. You should just start over with your beginning map and tune from there.


Thanks Dennis! I will do just that
Well just as a little sidenote,,I put my o2 sensors back to their respective cylinders
and stayed with Jamies original MAP. WOW bike runs alot better,,and I cant really tell from just my ears,, but I don't know how it could run better,,
I will do some logging runs and see if Jamie can see something,,but other than that,,I am quite content.
I will get the visor for it and mount it on my bars this summer just to educate myself,,
but I am impressed with this unit!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 09:34 AM
  #2103  
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
127.5 is the max. Up your cu in 8% and decrease your ve tables 8%.
Thank you Lonewolf176
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #2104  
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Quick question: When people say they adjust the AFR (Lambda in my case) to Closed Loop for the "cruise range," what is the typical cruise range? Is it 2400 - 3400 and 30 MAP to 70 MAP, for example? Thanks for any advice here.

TedMan
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 10:56 AM
  #2105  
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[quote=ColoSpgsMark;9608602]
Originally Posted by Heatwave

If just looking at tuning outside of the close loop area, nice idea to find what the motor likes. Are you setting your AFR down in the 13.* range to start with, and then adding VE as necessary?

In closed loop range, I'd prefer to put my priority on VE first, then alter spark as needed
I already have a very strong starting map for my bike from dynotuning so the revisions I'm suggesting to Spark/VE are really relatively small revisions after a very good dyno tune. After logging the bike's performance using the PV I then make these additional small revisions. As good as the tune was from the dyno tuning, it still represents performance runs on a dyno without my weight and riding style taken into account.

The PV allows me to make modest revisions to a well performing map that are unique to the way I ride. I would not consider this a reasonable approach unless I was already starting with a well performing map that essentially has the WOT part of the map relatively "squared away".
 

Last edited by Heatwave; Apr 2, 2012 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #2106  
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
127.5 is the max. Up your cu in 8% and decrease your ve tables 8%.
Another approach is to up the cubic inches, keep the VE the same/raise it and also raise the spark advance. But there are definitely limitations to upping the displacement as essentially you're tricking the injectors to deliver more fuel across every single cell in the fuel map and at a certain point you'll exceed the gms/sec that injector is capable of delivering.

For example my engine is a 110 but the displacement of my map is 114.5. By raising the displacement, it allowed me to increase spark advance in both cyls and then data log to see if I created any knock events by using the knock sensor.

Once I adjusted the fuel map by adding fuel in any cells where knock occurred, I was able to create a higher performance map with even crisper throttle response.
 

Last edited by Heatwave; Apr 2, 2012 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 11:10 AM
  #2107  
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Originally Posted by TedMan
Quick question: When people say they adjust the AFR (Lambda in my case) to Closed Loop for the "cruise range," what is the typical cruise range? Is it 2400 - 3400 and 30 MAP to 70 MAP, for example? Thanks for any advice here.

TedMan
Kinda depends on the motor and where you have enough torque to not lug the engine. In my case, I consider my cruise range from 2000-3000 but for other builds depending on the cams it could certainly be 2400-3400.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #2108  
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Default New bike, a/c, pipes, and PV

Traded in '07 FLHTC (86K miles) for a new 2012 FLHTK. Nice bike. Rides and handles very well. Not completely happy with the heat off the pipes, wanted a 2 into 1 system so....

Ordered V&H Pro Pipe, Pro Billet Air Cleaner, and Power Vision from Fuel Moto. Good price, prompt shipment and delivery. Installed myself, not without some challenges - the space to bolt the pipe onto the bracket attached to the transmission is real tight.

The Power Vision is cool. I've never had another tuner so nothing to compare with but this is what I wanted, something to flash the ECM and not reside on the bike. Fuel Moto supplied tune went in, and the difference is noticeable. Bike runs very well, I will have to watch out for speeding tickets. Roll on the throttle at 70 to pass on the interstate and you're going 85 in a hurry. Need to ride more to see how mpg fares but so far looks to be around 40.

Only changes I have made to the tune: modify the speedo factor by about 1% to get it to read a little closer to my GPS. It was 3-4 mph off, now it is 1-2 off which is OK with me. Other change, EIMTS was set off in the tune, I set it on. Nothing else yet but I am still looking and trying to figure out what might be good for the bike.

Question: any reason that EIMTS should be off? Does it screw anything up? Bike came from the dealer with it off. Just wondering.

Been lurking on this forum for a while. The wealth of info is amazing, I have learned a lot. Thanks to all of you who do research and share your results. Thanks to Fuel Moto for doing a great job in pre-sales consulting with me, and in processing the order correctly and promptly.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 01:23 PM
  #2109  
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Originally Posted by Teardrop
I am now playing with the AFR/Lambda table. I am looking for best power with fuel economy second and I think I am just about there.
If you're looking for fuel economy in the cruise range you can have both power and mileage in one tune. I see no rational reason to tune for economy anywhere else. The only drawback to increased mileage is some corresponding increase in heat and part-throttle response. I find both side-effects to be minimal on my '07 even when running at stoich.

If you're doing Basic tuning (closed-loop) you can't tune for WOT anyway, so I would use the same values that are present in the open-loop areas of the FM tune, then set Lambda as near 1.0 as you're willing to go for the closed-loop portion. For AFR bikes, set AFR values to 14.6 and Closed Loop Bias to 450-780 (lower being leaner).

I have a second tune which is the same as the normal tune except all AFR cells are at 13.0. This is for emergencies and I need all the cooling I can get, like for a summer bout of gridlock traffic that doesn't move for long periods.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 02:01 PM
  #2110  
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Originally Posted by Linville Lion
What is the best AFR setting for idle? I was in stop and go traffic yesterday (mostly stop) for Martinsville. Ambient temperature was 70F. My ET seemed to climb faster than I remember last year. It got to 325F in a very short while. Oil Temp stayed below 230F so I was okay but it surprised me. I did add fuel to the idle range over the winter. It is set to 13.8 AFR in the idle part of the map. I thought extra fuel would cool the engine. I am wondering if extra fuel generated more heat. What think thee?
I don't know what "best" idle AFR setting might be, but it would vary by environment, individual bike configuration, and rider interpretation. My stock tune was set to 13.0 and I bumped it up to 14.0 with no perceivable change in idle smoothness. If you are having trouble keeping ET at a sane level in traffiic I would set it lower than 13.8, but I personally wouldn't go lower than 13.0.

You say you were running 325° "in a short while," but under what conditions? If that's in traffic, how long did it take to get that high and how slow was the traffic moving?
 
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